Here is a great article written by Dr Karen Overall, a board-certified Veterinary Behaviorist

B-2 PROTOCOL FOR RELAXATION:

BEHAVIOR MODIFICATION TIER 1

 

Introduction

This program is the foundation for all other behavior modification programs.  Its purpose is to teach the dog to sit and stay while relaxing in a variety of circumstances.  The circumstances change from very reassuring ones with you present to potentially more stressful ones when you are absent.  The purpose of the program is not to teach the dog to sit; sitting (or lying down, if the dog is more comfortable) is only a tool.  The goals of the program are to teach the dog to relax, to defer to you, to enjoy earning a salary for an appropriate, desirable behavior, and to develop, as a foundation, a pattern of behaviors that allow the dog to cooperate with future behavior modification (generally desensitization and counter conditioning).  This protocol acts as a foundation for teaching the dog context-specific appropriate behavior.  The focus is to teach the dog to rely on you for all the cues as to the appropriateness of its behavior so that it can then learn not to react inappropriately.

 

About Food Treats

This program uses food treats. Please read the logic behind this approach in the “Protocol of Deference: Basic Program”.  Remember, the treats are used as a salary or reward-not as a bribe.  If you bribe a problem dog, you are defeated before you start.  It is difficult to work with a problem dog that has learned to manipulate bribes, but there are creative ways-often involving the use of head collars- to correct this situation.  First, find a food that the dog likes and that it does not usually experience.  Suggestions include boiled, slivered chicken or tiny pieces of cheese.  Boiled, shredded chicken can be frozen portions and defrosted as needed.  Individually wrapped slices of cheese can be divided into tiny pieces suitable for behavior modification while still wrapped in plastic, minimizing waste and mess.  Consider the following guidelines in choosing a food reward:

1. Foods that are high in protein may help induce change in brain chemistry that help the dog relax
2. Dogs should not have chocolate because it can be toxic to them
3. Some dogs do not do well with treats that contain artificial colors or preservatives
4. Dogs with food allergies or those taking monoamine oxidase inhibitor (MAOI) drugs may have food restrictions (cheese, for dogs take MAOIs (deprenyl]).  A good treat for dogs with allergies are ‘Prescription Diet Hypoallergenic Treats’ or pieces of Canine z/d Ultra.
5. Dog biscuits generally are not sufficient motivation, but some foods are so desirable that the dog is too stimulated by them to ralex-something between these two extremes is preferred
6. Treats should be tiny (less than half the size of a thumb-nail) so that the dog dose not get full, fat or bored
7. If the dog stops responding for one kind of treat, try another
8. Do not let treats make up the bulk of the dog’s diet; the dog need its normal, well-balanced ration

 

The Reward Process

Rewarding dogs with food treats is an art. Learning to do so correctly helps the dog focus on the exercises and keeps everyone safe.  To prevent the dog lunging for the food, keep the already prepared treats in a little cup or plastic bag behind your back and keep one treat in the hand used to reward the dog.  That hand can then either be kept behind your back so that the dog does not stare at the food or can be moved to your eye so that you can teach the dog to look happy and make eye contact with you. The food treat must be small so that the focus of the dog’s attention is not a slab of food but rather your cues.  A treat of the correct size can be closed in the palm of the hand by folding the fingers and will not be apparent when held between the thumb and fore-fingers.  When presenting the dog with the treat, bring the hand, with a lightly closed fist, up quickly to the dog (do not startle the dog) and turn your wrist to open your hand.

When starting the program, let the dog smell and taste the reward so that it knows the anticipated reward for the work.  If the dog is too terrified to approach, you can place a small amount of the treat on the floor.  Then ask the dog to “Sit”; if the dog sits instantly, say “Good girl (boy)!” and instantly open your hand to give the dog the treat instantly while saying “stay.”

 

Getting the Dog’s Attention

If the dog does not sit instantly, call its name again.  As soon as the dog looks at or attends to you, say “Sit.”  If the dog will not look at you and pay attention, do not continue to say “Sit.”  If you continue to give a command that you can not reinforce, the dog learns to ignore that command. If necessary, use a whistle or make an unusual sound with your lips to get the dog’s attention.  As soon as the dog looks at you, say ‘Sit.”  Use a cheerful voice. Some people may hay to soften or lower their voice almost to a whisper to get the dog to pay attention to them.  Often this is because they have given all their pervious command to the dog by yelling. The dog has very successfully learned to ignore this.

If the dog is looking at you but not sitting, approach the dog to close the distance, raise the treat gently to your eyes, and request “Sit.”  Often just moving toward a dog helps the dog sit.  Not only have you decreased the distance, but you appear taller and to be over the dog; such behaviors are used in canine communication to get the lower ( in relative elevation) dog to obey the desires of the higher one.  You can use these innate dog behaviors as long are careful.  Never back up a dog that is growling.  Never corner a fearful dog.  Never continue to approach a dog that acts more aggressively the closer you come.  Remember, the point of the program is to teach the dog to relax and look to you for the cues about appropriateness of its behavior.  The dog cannot do this if upset.

If the dog still will not sit, consider using a head collar.  By using a long-distance lead you can request that the dog “sit” and gently enforce this from a distance by pulling on the lead.  Reward with a treat as soon as the dog sits.

 

Cautionary Note:

If your dog is aggressive or if you are concerned about approaching it, do not do any of these exercises off-lead until the dog is perfect on-lead.  Fit the dog with a head collar and work with the dog only on a lead at the outset.  The halter allows you to close the dog’s mouth if the dog begins to be aggressive.  This is an ideal correction because it meets the rule the psychologists have established for ideal “punishment”: you have interrupted the dog’s inappropriate behavior within the first few seconds of the beginning of the behavior so that the dog can from the experience.  Be gentle but consistent.  Taking your anger or fear out on the dog will only worsen the behavior.  As soon as the dog respond to the halter and calmly sits, reward the dog and continue.  Never reward a dog that is growling, lunging, barking, shaking, or urinating.

 

After the dog sits for the first time you ready to begin the program.  Remember the following guideline:

1. Use the dog’s name to get the dog to orient toward you and to pay attention. If this dose not works, use a whistle or a sound to which the dog is not accustomed.
2. Once the dog is attending to you (paying attention) say “sit” and give the dog 3 to 5 seconds to respond. If the dog does sit, reward it instantly; if not, repeat the “sit” command in the same calm, cheerful voice. You may want to experiment with voices to see the tonal qualities to which you do g best responds.
3.  Do not worry about using the dog’s name frequently or about repeating the commands if the dog responds. This is not obedience class; the dog will do well if it did well on these programs. Making the adjustment will not be a problem.
4. Do not chase the dog around the room to try to get it to comply with you. If necessary, choose a small room with minimal distractions and use a leash. A head collar provides even more instantaneous response. Use head halter and other collars kindly.

A sample sequence could look like this:

“ Bonnie – sit – (second pause) – sit – (3second pause) – Bonnie, sit – (move closer to the dog and move the treat to your eye) – sit – (Bonnie sits) – good girl! (Treat) – stay – good girl – stay (take a step backward while saying “stay” then stop) stay Bonnie – good girl – stay (return while saying “stay” – then stop) – stay bonnie – good girl! (treat) – okay (the releaser and Bonnie can get up)!” – (Bonnie Happily Gets up and watches calmly for your next signal.)

Note that you talk nonstop to the dog during these programs.  This type of talking is not allowed in obedience class but is desperately needed with inexperienced puppies and problem dogs.  These dogs need all the cues that they can get.  They need the constant guidance and reassurance of hearing your voice with clear instructions.  These instructions and reassurance should occur in the context and shaping or gradually guiding their behavior toward more appropriate behaviors.  You will have to learn to read subtle cues that your dog is giving and use these to your advantage.  You will find it easier than you believe.  The one thing that you absolutely cannot do is to talk a continuous stream to the dog without receiving the context-appropriate responses to your requests.  If you rush through everything, you will only stress the dog and teach it to ignore everything you say.  This is not good.  A corollary of this admonition is that it is necessary to use consistent terminology and brief phase and to do so in an environment when no one else is carrying on long, loud, distracting.

 

Avoiding problems

Do not push or pull on your dog or tug on its collar to get the dog to sit.  These types of behaviors can be viewed as challenges by some dogs and may make them potentially dangerous.  Use the methods discussed previously.  If you really believe that the dog needs some physical help in sitting, use a head collar.

Do not wave your hands or treat around in front of the dog.  This acts as a distraction and confuses the dog.  Part of the point of this program is to make the dog calmer and less confused.  Excitable behavior on your part or unclear signals can make your dog more anxious.  This does not help.  It is important to be calm.  Your dog will make mistakes.  This does not reflect on you.  Problem dogs and new puppies require a lot of patience.  The people who have had most success with these protocols have been those who work the hardest and most consistently.

Do not let your dog be a jack-in-the box.  You must control the situation, and you must achieve that control by convincing the dog to defer to you.  If the dog gets up to get the treat every time it is offered, the dog just controlled the situation.  If the dog does this, consider whether you were too far away from the dog when offered the treat. If so, move closer.  Ideally, the dog should be able to get the treat just by stretching its neck.  The dog should not need to get up.  If you have a small dog, this may mean that you need to squat down to offer the reward. Be careful if the dog is aggressive because your face is now close to the dog. If you are close enough for the dog to do the exercise properly and the dog still get up, close your hand over the treat and say “No.”

One advantage of holing the treat tin this manner is that you can safely deny the dog the treat as the last second if the dog acts inappropriately. Then ask the dog to sit again. After the dog sits, say “Stay,” wait 3 to 5 seconds, say “Stay” again, and then give the treat.  The two “stays” with the period between them will reinforce the dog that it cannot get up when it wants to-the dog must be released.  By asking the dog to stay twice, you are telling it that whenever it makes a mistake, it must do two things to recover from it.  A sample sequence follows:

“Susie – sit – (3 to 5 second pause) – sit – (Susie sits) – good girl! – stay (start to give treat and dog gets up) – no! – (close hand over treat) – sit – (Susie sits) – stay – (3 to 5 second pause)

stay – good girl! – stay (give treat) – Okay!” (Dog is no w allowed to get up and dose so.)

do not tell the dog that it is good if it is not.  Do not reward shaking, growling, whining, or any other behavior that may be a component of the behavior you are trying to correct.  If the dog gets inpatient and barks for attention, say “No! Quiet! – stay – good girl – stay – good girl – (treat) – stay….” If a vocal command is not sufficient to quiet the dog, remember that a head collar (especially the Gentle Leader/Promise) can be pulled forward to close the mouth and abort the bark before it starts, so that your correction is the most appropriate possible.

Finally, if you accidentally drop a food treat and the dog gets up to get it, do not correct the dog (the dog did not make the mistake and you did not deliberately drop the treat). Just start at the last point.

 

The Protocol

The protocol is a program that was designed so that your dog could learn from it without becoming stressed and without learning to ignore the task because they were too predictable.  The protocol intersperses long activities with short ones.  You may have to adjust some activities to your particular.  The pattern is actually spelled out in the program.  It is preferable to reward the dog only for performing each task perfectly.  If this is not possible for your dog, you can use a “shaping” procedure in which you first reward the dog for a behavior that approaches that indicated in the task.  The next time you do the task, the behavior must be closer to perfect to be rewarded.  If the program is done correctly, your dog will perform the task perfectly within a short time.

The Protocol is a foundation for desensitizing and counter conditioning your dog to situations in which it reacts inappropriately.  The pages can be used as one day’s tasks, or you may proceed at the dog’s pace (which may be faster or slower).  Some exercises are weird (asking you to run in circles or talk to people who do not exist), but these can be very helpful in getting dogs to learn to relax in a variety of circumstances.  Before you start the actual exercises, you must practice with the dog so that it can sit perfectly for 15 seconds without moving.  Do this with food treats as described previously.  Once your dog can sit this way and look happy and as if it worshipped the ground you walk on, you are ready for the more challenging stuff.

Theoretically the tasks are grouped in 15- to 20-minute units.  Your dog may have to more slowly or may be able to go quickly.  This is not a race, and people who push their dogs too quickly create additional anxiety problems!  Watch you dog’s cues.  Once the animal can sit for 15 second perfectly, reward it only when it approaches perfect behavior or perfection on the other exercises.  Use the shaping behaviors discussed previously if needed.  Use the shaping behaviors discussed previously if needed.  If needed the dog really cannot perform an exercise or task, return to one that the dog knows flawlessly, reward the perfect performance, and stop.  Every member of the family is to work 15 to 20 minutes per day with the dog, but it may less anxiety provoking and more stimulating for the dog if this is done in three or four 5-minute segments.

If everyone in the family cannot or will not work with the dog, the people who are not participating must not sabotage the program.  They minimally must comply with “The Protocol for Deference.”  If they cannot of will not do this, they should not be interacting with the dog at all.  If there is a problem with non-cooperation in the household, the dog will not behave as well as it can.

Remember that the key to success are consistency and appropriate rewards.  This means that, although we want you to work 15 to 20 minutes once or twice per day, you should work only for as long as both you and the dog are enjoying and benefiting from the program.  If this means that you use six 5-minute intervals to accomplish three or four of the task, that is fine. Please do not end on a bad note.  If the dog’s behavior is deteriorating or its attention is dissipating, do one final, fun, easy exercise and stop.  By pushing the dog past its limits, you induce anxiety, and the dog back-slides.

When the dog is able to perform all of the task and exercises both on- and off-lead in one location (the living room), repeat them all in other rooms and circumstances (the backyard or the park – use a lead here).  When the dog performs all the tasks perfectly in all places with all household members, you are ready for Tier2 of the protocols, which focuses on your dog’s specific problems.

If at any point you connate get past one task, try breaking that task into two or three component parts.  If this still does not help, call the veterinarian who recommended program and who is working with the dog’s behavior problem.  He or she will be able to help you determine the root of the problem.  Please do not just continue accepting suboptimal responses.  The goal is to improve your dog’s behavior.  Video taping while you work with the dog can help.  Not only can you show the veterinarian what you are doing, but also you can be a more objective critic of your approach if you are not also and active participant.

Finally, remember that the dog will give you lots of cues about how it feels.  We are rewarding the physical changes associated with relaxation and happiness and so will also reward the underlying physiological states associated with this (parasympathetic part of the autonomic nervous system).  This means that if the dog is relaxed, its body is not stiff, the jaws hang relaxed and are not tense, the ears are alert or cocked but not rigid, its head is held gently at an angle, and the eyes are clam and adoring, you will be rewarding the nervous system responses that help your dog learn.  If you mistakenly reward fear, tension, aggression, or avoidance, you will not make ass much progress.  If it is easier for you and the dog to be relaxed if the dog is lying down, do that.

Good luck, and do not get discouraged.  Many dogs go through a period of 3 to 7 days when their behavior gets worse before it improves.  For the first time in their life the dogs have a rule structure they must follow, and they get frustrated while learning it.  As they discover they will improve.  These programs are more difficult for the people, in many ways, than they are for the dogs.  Stick with it!

A sample map/floor plan is provided that illustrates a physical layout that work well for these types of protocols.

 

PROTOCOL TASK SHEETS

The task is listed on the left.  To the right is a space for your comments about the degree of difficulty of the task for the dog, how many times it had to be repeated, or other questionable behaviors that appeared during the task. You should discuss these with your veterinarian at the reexamination appointment.

Remember after each task to verbally praise the dog and reward it with a treat for perfect performance before going on to the next task. Each set of exercises is designed for a day or a block of time.  Warm-up and cool-down periods are provided.

At the first sign of any anxiety (lips retracted, pupils dilated, head lowered, ear pulled down and back, trembling, scanning), return to an exercise with which the dog is more comfortable or break down the exercise that produced these behaviors into smaller steps.

 

Day1: Dog’s Task

Sit for 5 seconds

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit while you take 1 step back and return

Sit while you take 2 steps back and return

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit while you take 1 step to the right and return

Sit while you take 1 step to the left and return

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit while you take 2 steps back and return

Sit while you take 2 steps to the right and return

Sit for 15 seconds

Sit while you take 2 steps to the left and return

Sit while you clap you clap your hands softly once

Sit while you take 3 steps back and return

Sit while you count out loud to 10

Sit while you clap you clap your hands softly once

Sit while you count out loud to 20

Sit while you take 3 steps to the right and return

Sit for 3 seconds

Sit for 5 seconds

Sit while you take 1 step back and return

Sit for 3 seconds

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit for 5 seconds

Sit for 3 seconds

 

Day 2:Dog’s Task

Sit for 5 seconds

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit while you take 1 step back and return

Sit while you take 3 steps back and return

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit while you take 3 steps to the right and return

Sit while you take 3 steps to the left and return

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit while you take 3 steps to the right and clap your hands

Sit while you take 3 steps to the left and clap your hands

Sit for 5 seconds

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit while you walk o fourth of the way around the dog to the right

Sit while you take 4 steps back

Sit while you walk one fourth of the way around the dog to the left

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit while you take 5 steps the back from the dog, clapping, your hands, and return

Sit while you walk halfway around the dog to the right and return

Sit while you walk halfway around the dog to the left and return

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit while you jog quietly in place for 3 seconds

Sit while you jog quietly in place for 5 seconds

Sit while you jog quietly in place for 10 seconds

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit while you jog one fourth of the way around the dog to the right and return

Sit while you jog one fourth of the way around the dog to the left and return

Sit for 5 seconds

Sit for 10 seconds

 

Day 3: Dog’s Task

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit for 15 seconds

Sit while you take 2 steps backward and return

Sit while you jog 5 steps backward from the dog and return

Sit while you walk halfway around the dog to the right and return

Sit while you walk halfway around the dog to the left and return

Sit while you take 10 steps backward and return

Sit for 15 seconds

Sit while you take 10 steps to the left and return

Sit while you take 10 steps to the right and return

Sit for 20 seconds

Sit while you walk halfway around the dog to the right. Clapping your hands, and return

Sit for 20 seconds

Sit while you walk halfway around the dog to the left. Clapping your hands, and return

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit while you jog 10 steps to the right and return

Sit while you jog 10 steps to the left and return

Sit while you jog in place for 10 seconds

Sit for 15 seconds

Sit while you jog in place for 20 seconds

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit while you jog backward 5 steps and return

Sit while you jog to the right 5 steps and return

Sit while you jog to the left 5 steps and return

Sit for 5 seconds while you clap your hands

Sit for 10 seconds while you clap your hands

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit for 5 seconds

 

Day 4: Dog’s Task

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit while you jog backward 5 steps and return

Sit for 20 seconds

Sit while you jog halfway around the dog to the right and return

Sit while you joy halfway around the dog to the left and return

Sit while you move three fourth of the way around the dog to the right and return

Sit while you move three fourth of the way around the dog to the left and return

Sit while you jog backward 5 steps, clapping your hands, and return

Sit for 10 second

Sit while you clap your hands for 20 seconds

Sit while you move quickly backward 10 steps and return

Sit while you move quickly 15 steps backward and return

Sit for 20 seconds

Sit while you jog halfway around the dog to the right and return

Sit while you jog halfway around the dog to the left and return

Sit while you walk quickly 15 steps to the left and return

Sit while you walk quickly 15 steps to the right and return

Sit for 20 seconds

Sit while you move three fourths of the way around the dog to the right and return

Sit while you move three fourths of the way around the dog to the left and return

Sit while you walk all the way around the dog

Sit while you walk approximately 20 steps to an entrance and return

Sit while you walk approximately 20 steps to an entrance, clapping your hands, and return

Sit while you walk around the dog, quietly clapping hands, and then return

Sit for 20 seconds

Sit while you jog quickly around the dog

Sit for 20 seconds

Sit for 10 seconds while you clap your hands

 

Day 5: Dog’s Task

Sit for 5 seconds

Sit for 15 seconds

Sit while you walk quickly 15 steps to the right and return

Sit while you walk quickly 15 steps to the left and return

Sit while you walk approximately 20 steps to an entrance and return

Sit while you walk approximately 20 steps to an entrance, clapping your hands, and return

Sit for 20 seconds

Sit while you walk around the dog, clapping your hands

Sit for 20 seconds

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit while you walk quickly backward, clapping your hands, and return

Sit while you walk approximately 20 steps to an entrance and return

Sit while you walk approximately 20 steps to an entrance, clapping your hands, and return

Sit while you go to an entrance and just touch the doorknob or wall and return

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit while you walk quickly backward, clapping your hands, and return

Sit while you walk approximately 20 steps to an entrance and return

Sit while you walk approximately 20 steps to an entrance, clapping your hands, and return

Sit while you go to an entrance and just touch the doorknob or wall and return

Sit for 20 seconds

Sit while you walk approximately 20 steps to an entrance, clapping your hands, and return

Sit while you go to an entrance and just touch the doorknob or wall and return

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit while the doorknob is touch or you move into entryway and return

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit for 15 seconds while you clap your hands

Sit for 10 seconds while you jog in place

Sit for 5 seconds

 

Day 6: Dog’s Task

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit for 20 seconds while you jog back and forth in front of the dog

Sit for 15 seconds

Sit while you walk approximately 20 steps to an entrance, clapping your hands, and return

Sit while you walk quickly backward, clapping your hands, and return

Sit while you go to an entrance and just touch the doorknob or wall and return

Sit for 20 seconds while jogging

Sit while you walk around the dog

Sit while you walk around the dog, clapping your hands

Sit for 15 seconds

Sit for 20 seconds

Sit for 30 seconds

Sit while you walk quickly backward, clapping your hands, and return

Sit while you go to an entrance and just touch the doorknob or wall and return

Sit while you open the door or go into the entrance way for 5 seconds and return

Sit while you open the door or go into the entrance way for 10 seconds and return

Sit for 30 seconds

Sit while you walk quickly backward, clapping your hands, and return

Sit while you go to an entrance and just touch the doorknob or wall and return

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit while you go through the door or the entrance way and return

Sit while you go through the door or the entrance way, clapping your hands, and return

Sit while you open the door or go into the entrance way for 10 seconds and return

Sit for 30 seconds

Sit while you disappear from view for 5 seconds and return

Sit for 20 seconds

Sit for 10 seconds while you clap your hands

Sit for 5 seconds

 

Day 7: dog’s Task

Sit for 10 second

Sit for 20 seconds while you clap your hands

Sit while you take 10 steps backward and return

Sit while you walk around the dog

Sit while you go through the door or the entrance way and then return

Sit while you go through the door or the entrance way, clapping hands, and return

Sit while you open the door or go through the entrance way for 10 seconds and return

Sit for 30 seconds

Sit while you disappear from view for 5 seconds and return

Sit while you go through the door or entrance way and return

Sit while you go through the door or the entrance way, clapping your hands, and return

Sit while you open the door or go through the entrance way for 10 seconds and return

Sit for 30 seconds

Sit while you disappear from view for 10 seconds and return

Sit while you disappear from view for 15 seconds and return

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit for 15 seconds

Sit for 5 seconds while you clap your hands

Sit while you jog in place for 10 seconds

Sit while you jog three fourth of the way to the left and return

Sit while you go through the door or the entrance way, clapping your hands, and return

Sit while you open the door or go through the entrance way for 10 seconds and return

Sit for 30 seconds

Sit while you disappear from view for 15 seconds and return

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit for 5 seconds

 

Day 8: Dog’s Task

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit for 15 seconds while you jog and clap your hands

Sit while you circle the dog and return

Sit while you disappear from view for 20 seconds and return

Sit while you disappear from view for 25 seconds and return

Sit for 5 seconds

Sit for 5 seconds while you sit in a chair (placed 5 feet from the dog)

Sit for 5 seconds

Sit for 15 seconds while you jog and clap your hands

Sit while you back up 15 steps and return

Sit while you circle the dog and return

Sit while you disappear from view for 20 seconds and return

Sit while you disappear from view for 30 seconds and return

Sit for 5 seconds

Sit while you circle the dog and return

Sit while you disappear from view for 20 seconds and return

Sit while you disappear from view for 25 seconds and return

Sit for 5 seconds while you sit in a chair near the dog

Sit while you disappear from view for 10 seconds, sit in a chair for 5 seconds, and return

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit for 20 seconds while you jog and clap your hands

Sit for 15 seconds while you run around the dog

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit for 5 seconds while you turn around

Sit for 5 seconds while you sit in a chair near the dog

Sit while you disappear from view for 10 seconds, sit in a chair for 5 seconds, and return

Sit for 10 seconds

 

Day 9: Dog’s Task

Sit for 5 seconds

Sit for 10 seconds while you turn around

Sit for 5 seconds while you jog

Sit while you walk around the dog

Sit while you jog around the dog

Sit while you jog around the dog, clapping your hands

Sit while you jog twice around the dog

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit for 15 seconds while you clap your hands

Sit for 20 seconds

Sit while you move three fourth of the way around the dog to the right and return

Sit while you move three fourth of the way around the dog to the left and return

Sit while you disappear from view for 10 seconds and return

Sit while you circle the dog and return

Sit while you disappear from view for 20 seconds and return

Sit while you disappear from view for 25 seconds and return

Sit while you disappear from view for 10 seconds, sit in a chair for 5 second, and return

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit while you bend down and touch your toes

Sit while you stretch your arms

Sit while you stretch your arms and jump once

Sit while you touch your toes 5 times

Sit while you stretch your arms and jump 3 times

Sit for 15 seconds

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit for 5 seconds

 

Day 10: dog’s Task

Sit for 5 seconds while you clap

Sit for 10 seconds while you your toes

Sit for 15 seconds while you sit in a chair

Sit while you walk quickly 15 steps to the right and return

Sit while you walk quickly 15 steps to the left and return

Sit while you walk approximately 20 steps to an entrance and return

Sit while you disappear from view for 5 seconds and return

Sit while you disappear from view for 10 seconds and return

Sit while you disappear from view for 15 seconds and return

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit for 5 seconds

Sit while you walk quickly 15 steps to the right and return

Sit while you walk quickly 15 steps to the left and return

Sit while you walk approximately 20 steps to an entrance and return

Sit while you disappear from view for 5 seconds and return

Sit while you disappear from view for 10 seconds and return

Sit while you disappear from view for 15 seconds and return

Sit while you disappear from view for 5 seconds, knock softly, on the wall, and return

Sit for 5 seconds

Sit while you disappear from view for 5 seconds and return

Sit while you disappear from view for 10 seconds and return

Sit while you disappear from view for 15 seconds and return

Sit while you disappear from view for 5 seconds, knock softly, on the wall, and return

Sit while you disappear from view, knock quickly but softly on the wall, and return

Sit for 5 seconds

Sit while you disappear from view for 10 seconds, knock softly, on the wall, and return

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit for 5 seconds

 

Day 11: Dog’s Task

Sit for 5 seconds

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit while you disappear from view, knock quickly but softly on the wall, and return

Sit for 5 seconds

Sit while you disappear from view for 10 seconds, knock softly, on the wall, and return

Sit for 30 seconds

Sit while you disappear from view, ring the doorbell, and immediately return

Sit while you disappear from view, ring the doorbell, wait 2 seconds, and return

Sit for 30 seconds

Sit while you disappear from view, ring the doorbell, and immediately return

Sit while you disappear from view, ring the doorbell, wait 5 seconds, and return

Sit for 30 seconds

Sit while you disappear from view, ring the doorbell, and immediately return

Sit while you disappear from view, ring the doorbell, wait 10 seconds, and return

Sit for 5 seconds while you jog around the dog

Sit while you walk around the dog

Sit while you walk around the dog, clapping your hands

Sit while you jog twice around the dog

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit for 15 seconds while you clap your hands

Sit for 20 seconds

Sit while you move three fourth of the way around the dog to the right and return

Sit while you move three fourth of the way around the dog to the left and return

Sit while you disappear from view for 10 seconds and return

Sit while you circle the dog and return

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit for 5 seconds

 

Day 12: Dog’s task

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit for 5 seconds while you clap your hands

Sit for 15 seconds

Sit for 20 seconds while you hum

Sit while you disappear from view for 20 seconds and return

Sit while you disappear from view for 25 seconds and return

Sit for 5 seconds while you sit in a chair near the dog

Sit while you disappear from view for 10 seconds, sit in a chair for 5 second, and return

Sit for 15 seconds

Sit for 20 seconds while you hum

Sit while you disappear from view for 20 seconds and return

Sit while you disappear from view for 25 seconds and return

Sit while you move three fourth of the way around the dog to the right and return

Sit while you move three fourth of the way around the dog to the left and return

Sit while you disappear from view for 10 seconds and return

Sit while you circle the dog and return

Sit while you disappear from view, knock quickly but softly on the wall, and return

Sit for 5 seconds

Sit while you disappear from view for 10 seconds, knock softly on the wall, and return

Sit for 30 seconds

Sit while you disappear from view, ring the doorbell, and immediately return

Sit while you disappear from view, ring the doorbell, wait 2 seconds, and return

Sit for 30 seconds

Sit while you disappear from view, say ”hello,” and return

Sit while you disappear from view, say ”hello,” wait 3 seconds, and return

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit for 5 seconds

 

Day 13: Dog’s Task

Sit for 5 second

Sit for 15 seconds while you hum

Sit for 15 seconds while you clap your hands and hum

Sit while you disappear from view for 20 seconds and return

Sit while you disappear from view for 25 seconds and return

Sit for 5 seconds while you sit in a chair near the dog

Sit while you disappear from view for 10 seconds, sit in a chair for 5 seconds, and return

Sit for 5 seconds

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit while you disappear from view, knock quickly but softly on the wall, and return

Sit for 5 seconds

Sit while you disappear from view for 10 seconds, knock softly on the wall, and return

Sit for 30 seconds

Sit while you disappear from view, ring the doorbell, and immediately return

Sit while you disappear from view, ring the doorbell, wait 2 seconds, and return

Sit for seconds

Sit while you disappear from view, say “hello,” wait 5 seconds, and return

Sit while you disappear from view, ring the doorbell, say “hello,” wait 5 seconds, and return

Sit for 30 seconds

Sit while you disappear from view, say “hello,” wait 5 seconds, and return

Sit while you disappear from view, ring the doorbell, say “hello,” wait 5 seconds, and return

Sit fro 20 seconds while you hum

Sit for 15 seconds while you clap your hands

Sit for 5 seconds

Sit while you jog around the dog

Sit for 10 seconds while you clap your hands and hum

Sit for 5 seconds while you jog in place

Sit while you jog around the dog, humming

 

Day 14: Dog’s Task

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit for 10seconds

Sit for 5 seconds while you clap your hands and hum

Sit while you run around the dog

Sit while you walk back and fourth to the door

Sit while you leave the room, quickly knock or ring the door bell, and return

Sit for 5 seconds

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit for 5 seconds while you clap your hands and hum

Sit while you run around the dog

Sit while you walk back and fourth to the door

Sit while you leave the room, quickly knock or ring the doorbell, and return

Sit for 5 seconds

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit while you disappear from view for 10 seconds, knock softly on the wall, and return

Sit for 30 seconds

Sit while you disappear from view, ring the doorbell, and immediately return

Sit while you disappear from view, ring the doorbell, wait 2 seconds, and return

Sit for 30 seconds

Sit while you disappear from view, say “hello,” wait 5 seconds, and return

Sit while you disappear from view, ring the doorbell, say “hello,” wait 10 seconds, and return

Sit for 30 seconds

Sit while you disappear from view, say “hello, “ wait 10 seconds, and return

Sit while you disappear from view, knock or ring the doorbell, say “hello,” wait 10 seconds, and return

Sit for 20 seconds while you hum

Sit for 20 seconds

Sit for 5 second

 

Day 15: Day’s Task

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit for 5 seconds

Sit for 15 while you clap your hands and hum

Sit while you disappear from view, knock or ring the doorbell, say “hello,” wait 10 seconds, and return

Sit for 20 seconds while you hum

Sit while you disappear from view, say “hello,” invite the imaginary person in, wait 5 seconds, and return

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit for 5 seconds

Sit while you disappear from view, say “hello,” invite the imaginary person in, wait 10 seconds, and return

Sit while you disappear from view, say “hello,” talk (as if o someone) for 5 seconds, and return

Sit for 5 seconds while you clap your hands and hum

Sit while you run around the dog

Sit while you leave the room, quickly knock or ring the doorbell, and return

Sit for 5 second

Sit while you leave the room, knock or ring the doorbell for 3 seconds, and return

Sit while you leave the room and knock or ring the doorbell for 5 seconds

Sit while leave the room and talk for 3 seconds to people who are not there

Sit while leave the room and talk for 5 seconds to people who are not there

Sit while leave the room and talk for 10 seconds to people who are not there

Sit while you round the dog

Sit for 10 seconds while you sit in a chair

Sit for 30 seconds while you sit in a chair

Sit for 15 seconds while you clap your hands and jog

Sit for 5 seconds

 

 

For  Future Repetitions

• Repeat all task in different locations
• Repeat all task with all family member
• Repeat all tasks with only every second or third task being rewarded with a treat. (Remember praise!)
• Repeat with only intermittent treat reinforcement.(Remember praise!)

 

USE OF ESSENTIAL OILS FOR TICK, MOSQUITO,
FLY, LICE AND FLEA PREVENTION

Dr Julie Schell   BSc(Hons), DVM, CVA, CVCHM, CVC

Veterinary recommended, safe tick collars and topical treatments are excellent at helping prevent tick and flea, lice and mosquito infestations in dogs.   However, if they are not available, or if your dog is reactive to these types of chemical-based products, or if you would like to treat your pet more naturally, I recommend the safe use of essential oil therapy.   Many of the chemical tick prevention treatments for dogs contain permethrins, which are not safe for use in cats due to toxicity issues, therefore essential oils can be used instead.

Many veterinarians trained in herb and essential oil therapy understand and use natural essential oil sprays that contain lavender, peppermint, eucalyptus, catnip, lemon, citronella, lemongrass, rosemary, malaleuca, oregano, palo santo, and basil to help repel mosquitoes, fleas, and lice as well as ticks.  More research is currently being done to determine the efficacy of other types of essential oils and herbs as well.

Essential oils are natural compounds in plants.   Each plant has specific oils, often to help prevent itself from invasion from parasites, bacteria and insects.  Once extracted then diluted, these essential oil mixes can be safe for medicinal use in pets.

It is important to work with your veterinarian to ensure that the oils are used safely and effectively.

For more information contact us www.bowbottomvet.com or 403 278 1984.
We are currently stocking our own ‘Atomic Bug/Tick Spray’ made in-clinic! Come on by and ask us about it today!

References:

Some of the many journal articles available on Pubmed:

1. Mint , citronella, to repel ticks:   http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19897309
2. Catnip deters feeding of ticks:   http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19645285
3. Lavender  for tick control:  http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/20433836
4. Rosemary:  http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/20695287
5. Lemon to repel mosquitoes:  http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/22903418
6. Catnip to repel flies:  http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/22903418

Textbooks:

Shelton, Melissa;  Animal Desk Reference, Essential Oils for Animals;  2012

Shelton, Melissa;   Essential Oils for Natural Pet Care;  2011

www.oilyvet.com

MOXIBUSTION

BOW BOTTOM VETERINARY HOSPITAL
Dr Julie Schell  BSc(Hons), DVM, CVA, CVCHM, CVC

 

Moxibustion, also known as moxa treatment, is use of heat and aroma radiated from an ignited, condensed mugwort herb stick that is passed above specific acupuncture points.  It is very helpful for augmenting acupuncture treatments, dispersing stagnation, decreasing pain, improving blood circulation, decreasing Dampness (which is a pathological condition in Traditional Chinese Veterinary Medicine), improving Qi  circulation, and decreases Cold invasion (it helps warm the patient).

I often prescribe moxa sticks for pet owners to use at home along with their other treatments.  When ignited, the moxa stick is very hot, so caution must be taken to prevent the pet’s or pet owner’s fur or skin to be burnt.

Directions for use:

1.  Ignite the moxa stick using a BBQ lighter—the smokeless moxa rolls usually take about 30 to 60 seconds to light because they are so dense.  You will know if it is ignited when gently blowing on the end of the stick reveals a red/orange ember glow.

2.  Pass the moxa stick about 1cm to 2cm above the designated areas for the length of time prescribed by Dr. Schell.  She will usually prescribe 3 to 5minutes per treatment.

3.  When finished the treatment, extinguish the moxa stick using a moxa stick snuffer, a cigar snuffer or a shot glass or other small glass filled with clay cat litter.  Do not use water to extinguish the moxa roll as it can damage the roll.

4.  After several uses, the moxa stick will become shorter and shorter.  When it becomes too short to work with, a new one should be started.

Dr Schell will let you know how often it should be used for your pet.   Usually it is prescribed for 4 to 5 days in a row after a traumatic event or during the healing procedures.  Dr Schell often recommends using moxa sticks on cold or damp days or when the pet seems stiff due to cold or dampness in the environment.

For our video demonstration, check out:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B1CncH6HfWw

If you have any questions or concerns, contact us at www.bowbottomvet.com

SENIOR PETS HAVE SPECIAL NEEDS

Dr. Julie Schell  BSc(Hons), DVM, CVA, CVCHM, CVC

Pets speed through their life stages, much faster than humans.  One year to a human is equivalent to 5 years in a dog or cat.  Because of this fast aging process, senior pets have special needs.  They definitely need to be examined by your veterinarian every 6 months, twice yearly.  This is to help diagnose and cure health issues that they may have before it’s too late.

Did you know that most large-breed dogs are considered seniors at 7 years of age?  Cats are considered to be seniors when they are 10 years old.

Senior dogs and cats are at a greater risk for conditions affecting the heart, kidney, and liver.  They are also more susceptible to arthritis, cancers, thyroid disorders and diabetes.  Through twice-yearly thorough physical consultations as well as blood and urine analyses and blood pressure monitoring, your veterinarian is able to identify animals that appear clinically ‘normal’ but may be developing early signs of organ dysfunction.  Animals unfortunately cannot tell us when they are in pain or discomfort. This is why it is important to be pro-active so that diseases can be identified early.  By diagnosing and treating medical problems before your pet becomes sick, longevity and quality of life will be improved.

Quality nutrition is also very important for senior pets.  They generally have a lower metabolism and thus require fewer calories per day.  They also have a higher risk for cancers and organ problems feeding extra vitamins, anti-oxidants and minerals, they are able to be more resistant against these diseases.  Your veterinarian will help you choose a food that meets the needs of senior pets.

Joint supplements such as glucosamine HCl and omega-3 fatty acids can help reduce the signs and discomfort associated with age-related arthritis.  Regular exercise and keeping your pet at his or her ideal weight will help prevent wear and tear on he joints and therefore decrease arthritis.  Acupuncture, chiropractic, herbal medicine, massage and essential oil therapy are also excellent ways of keeping joints mobile and strong, thus decreasing injury.

Elevating food and water bowls to prevent excess strain on their neck or front legs while eating or drinking is helpful.   Non-slip flooring is also helpful- such as a yoga mat in high traffic areas and in from of their food and water.

Comfortable bedding is also helpful at decreasing joint pain.  Check out the Kuranda Bed- it is like a low lying hammock for dogs and cats and I find that they truly enjoy them:  http://kuranda.com/dog-beds?partner=15361 

Senility, otherwise known as cognitive dysfunction has been documented in dogs.  As their brain ages, dogs can be more prone to behavior changes such as house-soiling, lack of response to verbal or visual cues, sleeping more during the day and less at night, pacing, staring into space or the walls and seeking less attention.  Your veterinarian can help you determine if these behaviors are due to age change or if they are caused by underlying diseases that can be treated.

Dental care cannot be encouraged enough.  Senior pets who have not had regular dental cleanings throughout their life are especially susceptible to disease.  Resistance to disease in seniors is not as good as it was when the pet was younger.  The healthier your pet’s mouth is, the less chance that bad bacteria will migrate from the mouth to other organs.

Advances in veterinary care help pets live longer, happier lives.  Don’t let your pet be a stranger to your veterinarian- bring them at least twice yearly for physical examinations.  Early detection and correction of illness is important.  For more information, please contact your veterinarian and visit websites such as  www.bowbottomvet.com and http://www.healthypet.com

 

10 TIPS ON COPING WITH THE LOSS OF YOUR PET

 

The death of a pet brings about some of the most painful and difficult decisions a pet owner must face. Following are some of the most commonly asked questions about pet euthanasia.

When is it time to euthanize my pet?
Your veterinarian is the best judge of your pet’s physical condition: whether an illness or injury is terminal; whether surgery or medication would significantly prolong your pet’s life, and for how long.

However, you are the best judge of the day-to-day quality of your pet’s life. You should be able to tell if he/she is suffering unreasonably, or if he/she is still finding pleasure in life despite his/her condition. If a pet still has a good appetite, responds to attention, seeks his/her owner’s company, participates in play or family life and is able to get up to relieve itself many pet owners feel that their pet is still enjoying life and living with dignity. If, on the other hand, a pet is in constant pain, undergoing difficult or stressful treatments, is unresponsive to affection or seemingly unaware of his/her surroundings a caring pet owner will probably wish to end this beloved companion’s suffering.

Evaluate your pet’s health honestly and unselfishly with your veterinarian. Nothing can make this decision an easy one, but it is often the final act of love you can make on his/her behalf.

Should I stay during euthanasia?
Many people feel that this is the final gesture of love and comfort one can show for an animal friend. Some have felt relief and comfort by staying, as they were able to see for themselves that the pet did not suffer, that he/she passed away gently and peacefully and that he/she is truly gone. For many, not witnessing the death – and perhaps not viewing the body afterwards – made it difficult to accept in their hearts that the pet was truly dead, making it more difficult to deal with their grief later.

Euthanasia can be traumatic. You must ask yourself openly and honestly if you are prepared to handle it. If you feel that your emotions will not be in control, you are more likely to upset the animal than comfort her. These emotions are natural and no cause for shame.

Your veterinarian will also be involved in this decision. Some clinics invite the owner to be present – others are less enthusiastic. If you feel strongly about staying and your veterinarian is unwillingly, you may wish to have the euthanasia done elsewhere.

Some veterinarians are willing to euthanize a pet at home. Others have come to the owner’s car to administer the injection. Again, discuss these options with your veterinarian.

What do I do now?
When a pet dies you face the question of how to handle the remains. When you are upset and grieving it may seem easiest to leave the pet at the clinic and allow the staff to deal with the next steps. Some find this the best choice. Others feel that a pet deserves a more formal ceremony.

Cremation is an inexpensive option that allows you to handle your pet’s remains as you wish: to bury them (even in the city), Scatter them, leave them in a columbarium, or keep them in a decorative urn.

Home burial is a common choice. However, city regulations usually prohibit pet burials. This is also not a good choice if you rent or move frequently.

For many people a pet cemetery provides a sense of permanence and security, bringing formality and dignity to a pet burial.

Check with your veterinarian for options in your area. When possible, it is better to make plans in advance than in the midst of your grief.

I hurt so much! Am I over-reacting?
Intense grief over the loss if a pet is completely normal and natural. Every pet owner who considers a pet a beloved friend and companion, a true family member, goes through what you are experiencing now. You are not being overly sentimental, weak, crazy, or foolish to grieve.

You may have spent years with this animal. During this time he/she was a constant part of your life, always ready to give you love, comfort and companionship. Pets provide unconditional, non-judgmental love. So don’t be surprised if you feel devastated by the loss of such a powerful relationship, no matter how long or brief it was.

What should I tell my children?
Some people fear that their children can’t handle the news of the death of a pet. You are the best judge of what your children can and cannot understand, based upon their ages and personalities – but don’t underestimate them! You may find that by being candid with your children about what happened to the pet you now have an opportunity to address some of the fears and misconceptions they have about death and dying.

Honesty is important. Avoid using the term “put to sleep”, as many children have difficulty understanding the difference between this and ordinary sleep. Don’t say, “he/she went away” or “he/she didn’t want to stay here anymore”. A child may then wait in anguish for the pet to return or wonder what he or she did to make the pet unhappy enough to leave. Make it clear that the pet will not come back and that he/she is at peace wherever he/she is.

Accept your child’s grief as you accept your own. Never assume that a child is too young or too old to grieve. Don’t try to hide your sorrow from them or they may fear that you don’t understand theirs. Discuss the loss with the entire family, giving everyone support in working through their emotional pain.

What can I do about my feelings?
The most important step you can take is to be honest with yourself about what you are feeling. Don’t deny that you are feeling pain or that you feel guilty or angry. Only by looking at these feelings and coming to terms with them can you begin to work through them.

You have a right to feel pain, guilt or anger. Someone you love has died. You are going to feel alone and bereaved. Acknowledge those feelings first, then ask yourself whether the circumstances justify them.

Locking away your grief doesn’t make it go away. Express it. Cry, scream, pound the floor, talk it out – do whatever helps you the most. Reminisce about the good times with your pet and the pleasure of his/her company. This will help you understand what the pet meant to you and clarify the significance of your loss.

Many people find it helpful to express their memories and feelings in stories, poems or letters to the departed pet. Other coping techniques include rearranging your schedule to fill in the times you once spent with the pet, removing the pet’s things from sight (though some find that keeping the pet’s things in view is helpful instead), preparing some form of memorial such as a photo collage, and talking to others about your loss.

Who can I talk to?
If your family or friends love pets they’ll understand what you’re going through. Don’t hide your feelings from them in an attempt to appear strong and calm. If your friends don’t see your need for comfort, they won’t be able to provide it! Working through your feelings with another person is one of the best ways to put them in perspective and learn how to handle them. Find someone you can talk with about your pet, someone who won’t be uncomfortable with your tears and grief. Remember, your grief is just as genuine and deserving of comfort and help as grief over loss of a human companion.

Should I get a new pet right away?
For most people, the answer is “no”. Generally, we need time to work through grief and loss to help us come to terms with our emotions before getting another companion animal. If these emotions are not resolved, you may find yourself resenting the new pet for seemingly trying to take the place of the old one. Your expectations of the new pet may be unreasonable; thus compromising both your needs and those of the new animal.

It is also not a good idea to get a look-alike pet. Comparisons become more likely when the animal looks much like the pet that is gone. Often, getting a look-alike pet is a sign that you haven’t accepted the loss of your pet and are trying to replace him/her.

A new pet should be acquired for his/her own sake; to be loved and accepted for his/her own special qualities. Select an animal that you can build another long and loving relationship with when everyone in the home is ready – because this is what living with a pet is all about.

Will my other pets grieve?
Just as you react to the loss of a family member, your other pets notice the absence of their companion. Pets recognize every change in the household. They often form strong attachments to one another, so you may find that the survivor of the bonded pair grieves for his/her companion. Cats grieve for missing dogs and dogs grieve for missing cats. Affection and grief are not species specific. You may need to give the surviving pet(s) a great deal of extra attention and love to help him/her/them through this period.  You may also find this helps you through your own sorrow more quickly than expected.

What can I expect to feel?
Different people experience grief in different ways. Besides your sorrow and loss, you may experience guilt, anger, denial, and/or depression.

Guilt may occur if you feel you were somehow responsible for your pet’s death – the “if only I’d been more careful” syndrome. It is pointless to burden yourself with the responsibility of the illness or accident that claimed your pet’s life. Weighing yourself down with guilt only makes it more difficult to work through your loss.

Denial is difficulty accepting that the pet is really gone. It’s hard to imagine that he/she won’t come greet you or that he/she won’t need his/her evening meal. Some pet owners carry this normal reaction to extremes, and worry that the pet is still alive and suffering somewhere. Others find it difficult to bring a new pet into their life because they feel it violates the memory of the deceased one.

Anger may be directed at the illness that killed the pet or any people associated with the pet’s death. Sometimes anger is justified but carried to an extreme; it only distracts you from the important task of resolving your grief.

Depression is a natural consequence of grief and, if unchecked, can leave you powerless to cope with your feelings. Extreme depression robs you of energy, even the energy to get up in the morning. Dwelling on your sorrow without working on its resolution can spiral into a painful trap in which your grief only becomes more bitter. 

Diet trial compliance
At-home tips for diet trials

A food allergy may be what’s causing your pet’s skin problems. To uncover which food or ingredient may be the culprit, you need to be committed to your pet’s diet trial. To stay on track, post this handout, along with any other dietary information provided by your veterinarian, in a highly visible spot, such as on your refrigerator or your pet’s food container.

The following points are key to the success of this diagnostic protocol:

• Feed your pet only the prescribed diet. No other foods or treats are allowed.
• Make sure all family members and friends know that your pet is receiving a special diet, and not to give outside food.
• If you need to use treats for rewards or training purposes, use some of the prescribed diet.
• If you have other pets of the same species in your house, feed them the same diet and feed them separately.
• Keep your pet out of the room during meals to avoid him or her picking up dropped food.
• If pills are prescribed for your pet, don’t hide them in anything other than the prescribed diet. If giving medication is a problem, please discuss with your veterinarian.
• Flavored products, such as those found in medications, toothpaste, and certain plastic toys, must be avoided during the diet trial.
• If your pet is in the habit of eating dropped food or garbage when exercised outside, keep it on a leash.

The Dangers of Ear Cropping and Tail Docking in Dogs

Dr Julie Schell  BSc(Hons), DVM, CVA, CVCHM, CVC

 It  is very important to fully understand the risks and severe side effects involved with ear cropping and tail docking in dogs.

Ear cropping and tail docking are very painful procedures and there is a high chance of post surgical infection, severe scaring that can lead to further pain not to mention poor cosmetic appearances.  The aftercare is extensive-way too much to put a puppy through- especially a puppy who you are trying to introduce to your home, train, raise and monitor.  The Canadian Veterinary Medical Association’s Animal Welfare Position Statements list that cropping and tail docking are unnecessary, simply cosmetic and are not recommended.

Dogs on average do much better in life if their ears are kept natural and intact.  The ear is a highly vascular and nerve-rich structure.  There are also many acupressure and acupuncture points in the ear that I use to treat patients with on a daily basis.  If the ear is amputated, the dog will not have the chance of benefiting from these treatments.  Also, dogs just love getting their ears rubbed and petted– don’t take that away from your dog.

Ear flaps are also useful in other medical areas.  I often use ear flaps to train owners to collect blood samples for blood glucose curves in diabetic dogs.

Tails are excellent in supporting the proper alignment of the dog’s spinal and also the tail helps balance the dog while they run.  Dogs rely on their tail to provide optimal gate.  I see this every day especially because I treat a lot of dogs with chiropractic and acupuncture.

Dogs who have had a leg amputated or who have painful arthritis in one leg often rely on their tail to support and balance their new locomotion needs.  The tail often acts a rudder while they are swimming or walking, aiding in their locomotion abilities.

When ears are cropped and the tail docked, dogs have difficulty in communicating with each other.  Dogs constantly use communication cues such as tail position and ear positions to help them interact with each other.  If these important appendages are missing, dogs often misinterpret each other which can lead to fighting and biting.

Humans also subconsciously and consciously use ear position and tail attitude to understand dogs– many people instantly become wary of dogs with cropped ears and missing tails, and they are more likely to show fear.  The dog is great at picking up on fear cues, which will hinder the relationship from one dog to another dog and from the dog to the human.  Biting and fighting can ensue when a dog or a human do not understand each other.  As you’re probably aware, dog bites and aggression in Calgary are treated very seriously by the City of Calgary Animal Services, and many dogs are listed as dangerous or even ordered to be euthanized by the City of Calgary every year because they have bitten people or other dogs.  That is not something I wish on anyone.  It is best to give your dog the best chance of growing into a well adapted, socialized pet, and keeping the ears intact is another way to help do that.

I also see a lot of ear infections in adult dogs who have had their ears cropped as a puppy.  This is because ears help prevent debris and dirt from entering the ear canal. If the dog’s ears have been cropped, the defense mechanisms are hindered.

I practice a lot of preventative medicine- ie- doing positive things and not doing negative things, to help prevent disease and behaviour issues.  Leaving a dog’s ears intact helps prevent a lot of medical and behaviour issues.

Thus, I definitely do not recommend ear cropping or tail docking, and I do not perform the procedure unless it is truly for health related reasons (such as tail cancer or ear cancer).  I have the best interests of your dog and you in mind.  Pet owners should put all the money and energy that it takes to do the cropping and docking, and use it for all the aftercare into other areas of healthcare for your dog such as nutrition, training, pet health insurance, massage therapy, toys, daycare, etc.

Did you know that your dog can still be shown with intact ears and tails?  The judges are much more open and in some rings cropping and docking are prohibited.  Plus, dogs look so beautiful and feel great in their natural form, with long tails and full, intact ears.

Please contact us if you have any questions.  www.bowbottomvet.com

Thank you,

Dr. Julie Schell  BSc(Hons), DVM, CVA, CVCHM, CVC
Bow Bottom Veterinary Hospital
www.bowbottomvet.com

 Your pets are our passion!