Here is a great article written by Dr Karen Overall, a board-certified Veterinary Behaviorist

 

B-16 PROTOCOL FOR INTRODUCING A NEW BABY AND A PET 

The addition of a new baby to a household can upset the social environment of that household and can upset the pets in the household.  Steps can be taken to greatly reduce the probability of this happening by following the instructions below.  These instructions are primarily designed for two parent families.  However, it is possible to implement most of the instructions if only one parent is available; notations about this have been made throughout.  Please remember that no animal should be left alone unsupervised with an infant for any reason.  This is not because most animals are innately aggressive toward infants, but rather because no infant would be capable of pushing an animal away if that animal cuddles up to them either for love or for heat.  Until the child is old enough to behave absolutely appropriately with the pet (and that could be as old as 10 years of age), do not let children interact alone with the pets until you know how they will respond in those circumstances.  This protects both the child and the pet.

 

Step 1

Before the baby comes, get the pet used to a regular schedule that you believe is realistic and that will be kept when the infant is present.  Start the feeding and walking schedule that the animal will experience once the infant comes.  This schedule will probably be radically different than the current schedule, and it is best that they do not experience all the changes at once when the baby arrives.  Include in the schedule a 5 to 10 minute period daily when you will attend only to the pet’s needs.  This period will represent its quality time and can occur either in one bout or in two.  During this time, pet the animal, groom it, scratch it, play with toys, talk to it, massage it, and so on.  Maintain the schedule no matter what, and make it one that can be implemented in the presence of the infant.  This may necessitate setting an alarm clock 5 minutes earlier or agreeing that even if the baby cries at some point, you will not interrupt the interaction with the pet during those periods if the baby is not overly distressed and if the pet is not distressed by the child’s cries.  You might also find that this is a time you can set aside for you to relax; the grooming, massage, and conversation with the pet will help you relax.  Be realistic and do not feel guilty.  Five or 10 minutes of concentrated attention is probably more time than you give the animal as a block now.  Although everybody will have to adjust to an infant’s schedule, this is one way that you can tell the animal that it is still important to you and it counts.  Realize that if you have multiple pets, each will need at least 3 minutes of undivided attention each day.  If you have pets that get along particularly well with each other, you can certainly team them up to play with or to talk to them, but remember that the more animals you have, the more difficult it will be to give them all of the things that they need.

 

Step 2

Start the dog on a leash-walking schedule that you anticipate can be maintained with a baby.  Make your schedule realistic and implement it before the arrival of the child.  It would be preferable if the schedule changes could be made as early as possible before the arrival of the child.  This is a good time to consider changing the mechanism you use to walk your dog.  If you are using a choke collar or regular buckle collar and the dog does not behave properly instantaneously, now is the time to teach the dog to walk in a head halter (either a Halti, or, preferably, a Gentle Leader Promise System Canine Head Collar) or to teach it to walk on a no-pull harness (Lupi or Sporn harness).  This is the time to get the pet under control so that you are able to take the dog with you everywhere you go with the baby where dogs are welcome, and you want the dog to behave well.  In addition, you do not want to struggle with a baby in a backpack or in a stroller and a dog that is pulling.  This is potentially dangerous scenario that is potentially injurious for all three of you.  You may want the protection of the dog, the company of the dog, and the necessary exercise for the dog when you are with the baby.  A well-controlled dog will give you this.  In addition, if you are unable to take the dog everywhere you take the baby, the dog will learn that the baby has displaced it in that role in the family.  Although it is inappropriate to use terms such as jealousy when discussing the manner in which the pet treats the baby, any dog or cat will realize that it is not getting the same amount of attention.  Pets will also realize that this attention has been transferred to another individual.  This phenomenon could then promote attention-seeking behaviors that are designed to be competitive with the attention the infant is now getting.  The more often you can exercise the dog (or cat, if the cat enjoys the exercise) with the child, the better everybody’s relationship will be.  As soon as you learn that an infant will be arriving, obtain and learn to use a device such as the Gentle Leader Promise System Canine Head Collar, a Halti, or a no-pull harness.

 

Step 3

Again, before the baby arrives, allow the pet to explore the baby’s sleeping and diaper changing area.  For the same reasons discussed previously, you do not wish to wholly exclude the dog from every place the baby will be.  These areas will provide smells that are interesting to the dog or cat.  Let the dog or cat become familiar with them.  You will be using baby powder, lotions, diapers, and baby objects before you have the baby.  Let he do or cat become accustomed to these by sniffing and even pawing or nosing at them.

If the dog or cat tries to drag any baby items off, correct it by telling it “No” and asking the animal to relinquish the object.  If you are unable to get the dog to relinquish the object, now is the time to start teaching the dog more appropriate manners, such as “sit,” “stay,” “drop,” “down,” “take it,” and “drop it.”  If your dog cannot do these before the arrival of the baby, you will have serious management problems.  Now is the time, when you have some time, to address them.  It is insufficient to say that your dog has been to an obedience class if the dog still does not respond to you instantaneously for vocal command.  Mechanisms for teaching dogs these types of behaviors are discussed in the “Protocol for Deference: Basic Program” and “Protocol for Relaxation: Behavior Modification Tier 1.”

Do not let the pet make a habit of sleeping in or on any of the baby’s furniture.  It will only seem like a further correction when you do not allow the pet to do so once the baby arrives.  Do let the animal become familiar with the area.

If your pet has had toys that are stuffed animals that may look just like infant or baby toys, expect that the pet will think that it can play with the baby’s toys.  If you are willing to wash these, there is nothing wrong for a health standpoint; however, the big problem will be that the dog may round up and take all of the infant’s toys.  As the baby ages, the dog may drag the toys from the baby’s hand.  Babies can be unintentionally, but tragically, injured under such circumstances.  It may be preferable to shift the dog to toys that do not closely resemble the toys the baby may have.  Such toys can have different scents or different sounds associated with them.  If your dog can “sit” and “stay” and take an object and “drop it” at your request now, you can use that behavior to teach both the baby and the dog how to interact appropriately with each other later in life.

 

Step 4

When the baby is born, have your spouse (or whomever is caring for the pet at that time) take home some articles of clothing that the baby has used.  This will teach the animal not only that these new clothing smells are part of its new repertoire, but also that there is an infant involved.  Allow the pet to smell these items.  Leave the around the house.

It is also best to make arrangements for the pet to be cared for in you r home in advance of the arrival of the infant.  Advance notice is good because the animal will be rushed around in a surprising manner, left with strangers, and shifted quickly from one place to another, only to return home to discover the infant.  It is preferable to have the dog watched for in your home because this decreases the dog’s stress level.  A dog, especially if it does not like being in a kennel or has never been kenneled, may become more anxious and fearful when removed to the kennel.  The pet can learn to associate the advent of this fear and anxiety with the advent of a new arrival.

 

Step 5

When the baby comes home, you will need help.  Someone, whether or not he or she is your spouse, should hold the baby while you go in to greet the animals.  You have been missing from the household while either having or going to meet the baby, and the pets will have missed you.  You should be able to greet and pay attention to the animals without having to tell them to go away and without having to risk them inadvertently knocking you over or scratching the baby.  If you have a dog that jumps, the dog should be put in another room until everything is calm and you can get inside to greet it.  You may want to introduce any jumping doges or dogs that are difficult to control or exuberant to the rest of the family on a leash if it provides more control, but first you should greet the dog or cat exuberantly.  Remember, you have been gone and that is potentially scary for pets.  After the greeting process, the baby should be held by someone else and kept out of the way. When you are ready to start to introduce the pets to the new baby, harnesses and leashes can be very helpful. Introductions should only be begun once all pets are already quiet and calm and everything is back to a more normal situation. This could take 15 to 30 minutes.  During this time the pets might be curious about eh baby, but they must first calm down fro the earlier rambunctious mode.

 

Step 6

Once the initial pandemonium has ceased, you are ready to start formally introducing the pets to the new baby.  Your spouse, or a friend who is helping you, should sit comfortably on the couch with the baby.  You can then be responsible for controlling and monitoring the pet.  The pet should e able to smell the baby and explore.  Pets should be leashed or otherwise restrained in case they make any sudden aggressive (or even nonaggressive) movements toward the baby.  If your pet is fearful of the baby, talk to the pet gently, rub it, massage it, and encourage it to smell the infant.  Do not hold or dangle the child in front of the pet.  This could cause the pet to lunge.  It is a wholly inappropriate and potentially dangerous behavior.  The animals and the baby will get used to each other on their own terms; certainly, any infant that is dangling over a pet is in an abnormal social circumstance.  If you are alone, you can put a harness on the pet and tie the harness to solid, stationary pieces of furniture with a leash.  If you do this, you can then sit down at a distance where the pet can sniff the infant but not lunge.  You can still verbally reward the pet while enforcing this safe distance.

Remember to be calm at all times.  Although one lick might be acceptable, you should be able to tell the animal to stop instantly. If the animal is unable to respond to a verbal correction, licking is not acceptable.  IF the animal hisses or growls at the infant, you must be able to verbally correct those behaviors.  If not, take the animal and put it in another room until it is cal.  As soon as it is calm, you can try this again in the same circumstances.  Do not reassure the pets that it is “okay” and that “Mommy” and “Daddy” still love the pet, an aggressive behavior toward an infant is not okay.  The animal must learn that if it wants favorable attention from you, it must behave in a favorable manner toward the newest addition to the family.

If you have trouble getting the animal to calm down or getting it to respond to a verbal correction (this might be particularly true with cats), you can try using a water pistol. Squirt the animal as it begins to hiss or look aggressive.  Remember that cats that take showers will not respond quickly to water, and you may have to use a higher power water pistol or one that has a small amount of lemon juice or vinegar added to the water in it.  Remember that the point of any correction is to startle the animal so that it aborts the behavior, and you can then reinforce a more appropriate behavior.  The point of these corrections is not to terrify the animal.  In fact, terrifying the animal or brutally punishing the pet will grossly misfire and will teach the animal that any time the infant is present horrible things happen.  Corrections are best done in the first 30 seconds of the beginning of the behavioral sequence, and that behavioral sequence usually starts with a look.  Cats’ eyes usually become huge, the ears are moved back, the hair is up, the cat might arch its back, duck its neck, and retract its lips or sound nasty.  Please do not wait for a pounce or a swat to correct any animal.

 

Step 7

When there is only one spouse at home with the infant during the first few weeks, pets should be restrained or confined in the presence of an infant.  It is impossible for you to be sitting on the couch, ministering to a baby, and prevent a pet attack if the situation arises.  The key is to avoid any aggression or any circumstance in which the pet might be unsure of what the appropriate behavior would be.  If the pet is a dog, it can be leashed at a distance with either a head halter or a harness or, if the dog does not pull, a neck collar.  The animal can still be close to the baby and the client can pet it, but the dog cannot lunge and reach the baby.  Baby gates also work well for some dogs.  If the dog is prone to run through baby gates, a new baby is a potent stimulus.  If you are tying the animal, make sure that the full extent of the animal’s reach, including the extent of the neck and head, is at least one dog length away from the child.  This is because you will invariably be nursing the baby, typing on a computer, and the fax machine and the doorbell will ring at the same time. Any dog that is problematic may wait for a moment when your guard is lowered to lunge at he baby.  Cats are more difficult, but many cats adjust well to leashes and harnesses; otherwise, many cats do not object to being banished from the room for short periods of time.

 

Step 8

If, after 3 weeks or so, the pet accepts the baby with no untoward behavior it can be unleashed. Regardless, the pet still needs to be closely supervised and observed.  It is best if one spouse tends to the pet while the other tends to the baby.  It is important that if two people are to share caretaking duties and the responsibility for reinforcing appropriate behavior, that one person does not always reinforce the dog.  Sharing and trading off the attention for the dog and the baby is critical for both people so that the dog learns to associate the warm, loving environment with everybody.  For dogs that do not respond well to voice commands and for whom the baby is a strong stimulus, the dog should never be alone with the child, even in passing, until the child can fend for himself or herself.  In many cases that dog should not be along with the child if only adult is available until the dog can be taught to react more appropriately to the child.  Please do not believe that t muzzle could protect an infant or a young child from damage from a dog.  Muzzles may prevent bites, but the do not dissuade the dog from lunging and pushing on the child.  Infants and young children are particularly susceptible to crush injuries and, in many cases, skulls have been fractured by a dog that lands on a child in play without the intention to do damage.

 

Step 9

If the pets do not pose a hazard (tripping, falling, jumping, grabbing) and they are truly just being social, there is no reason, once they are accustomed to the new baby, that they cannot accompany the parent around the house and be with the baby while he or she is being changed, bathed, and so on.  In fact, this helps facilitate the future interaction between the child and the pet and may help the child become a kinder, more humane individual by learning age-appropriate pet behavior.  Regardless, any dog so treated should be very responsive to voice commands so that no struggle should ever ensure in getting the dog to comply wit ha desired behavior.

 

Step 10

Under no circumstance should any pet be allowed to sleep in a room with an unattended infant or young child.  Use a baby monitor, an intercom, or a room monitor, and close the door. Predatory tendencies are far less of a concern than is the fact that the dog or cat could inadvertently smother a child.  The amount of guilt associated with a tragedy would be unbearable for both the new parent and for the pet.

 

Step 11

If the pet is aggressive or frightened around the child, you should start exposing the pet to children very gradually.  Go back to Steps 5 and 6.  Such pets must be supervised in all interactions with children.  Remember that even muzzled animals can harm infants.  Predatory aggression is the most common from of aggression shown by dogs to very young infants, whereas aggression caused by pain or fear is frequently associated with the older children (18 to 36 months of age).  These children are often uncoordinated and may inadvertently hurt a pet by their play or their ambulatory capabilities.  Older pets that may be arthritic or that have painful hips or shoulders are particularly at risk, as are those with chronic ear conditions.  These are areas that children frequently grab.  Young children should be taught to treat pets gently: no pulling, no tugging, and no pounding on them.  Again, this is especially important if the pet is old, ill, or arthritic because any dog that is in pain may use a bite as its only defense against a rambunctious child.

Finally, there has been a well-documented link between animal abuse and child abuse.  Children who abuse animals will progress to abuse of other individuals and will abuse their own children in the future.  In turn, many children who are abused will abuse pets.  If your child has a problem complying with age-specific, appropriate, humane, and gentle handling conditions of pets, it could be that the child has a problem or has observed this behavior from friends.  If so, this potential problem should be explored.  On the very positive side, appropriate pet-child behavior can be a wonderful experience and can help make the children more humane and socially well-adjusted.

Here is a great article written by Dr Karen Overall, a board-certified Veterinary Behaviorist

PROTOCOL FOR CHOOSING COLLARS, HEAD COLLARS, AND HARNESSES

IDENTIFICATION

One of the main objectives that collars accomplish is identification. All cats and dogs should be labeled. There are three main ways to do this, and they are not exclusive: (1) tags on a collar provide information about the client (name, address, and phone number), veterinarian (primarily the phone number), and vaccination status (current rabies vaccine); (2) tattoos in ears or on thighs; or (3) microchipping. Tattoos are usually comprised of the client’s Social Security number (in the United States) or some code and require at least sedation to execute. The dog or cat then usually wears another tag on its collar indicating the telephone number to call should the animal be separated from its people and need to find its way home. Microchipping is becoming more broadly available, but in Europe and the United Kingdom the systems are less standardized then they are in the United States. Microchips are easy to install but require the widespread availability of microchip readers. Long term effects of an implanted, digitally coded device have not been fully evaluated, but the risks appear small in preliminary tests. The general principle behind microchips is that a number is displayed when the chip is scanned and ownership data can be obtained by calling a central depot. The animal generally but not always wears a tag that indicates that a chip has been implanted. The chips are radioopaque, meaning that they will be displayed on a radiograph or x-ray film. Whatever method is chosen, two factors should be certain: (1) the tags are current, and (2) they are on a collar that fits comfortably. The latter means that the collar is either a breakaway collar through which one or two fingers can slip comfortably or  that the collar is sufficiently snug to stay on the animal if it tilts its head, but should the collar become entangled, the animal can pull its head out of the collar. If clients are not cautious about the fit of collars, animals can strangle or collars can become imbedded in their skin, resulting in morbidity or mortality. Breakaway collars are particularly important for cats, who have elevated squeezing their bodies into small places into an art form.

All animals should be labeled. If they are lost or stolen, it may be their only hope of getting home again. If the township or county in which the pet lives requires a license tag, this could be the only thing that saves the pet from impoundment, quarantine, or destruction.

 

CONTROL

Collars and harnesses are used primarily for control of dogs, but a few words about harnesses and leashes for cats may be helpful.

Cats should be restrained when they go to the veterinarian and, if they are indoor cats, when they are outside. They should also be restrained in a car so they do not become projectile. Placing them in a crate can accomplish this, but more freedom and exercise can be an excellent idea. All kittens should be fitted with a harness so that they can be encouraged to explore the world. A harness is preferable to a collar because, fitted correctly, it will not injure the cat and the cat cannot slip out of it. The younger the cat is when the client fits it with a harness, the easier it will be to accustom the cat to it.  Once the harness is on the cat, it should be taken for trips in cars, on walks, and for visits to the veterinarian. These activities should occur frequently; they will pay off later when the cat needs care that requires tractability. If the cat can safely be taken outside, the cat’s life and the interaction between the cat and client will be enriched.

 

BUCKLE COLLARS
Buckle collars can be good to accustom young puppies or kittens to leashes but should not be relied on for control of any animal. Any animals that walks calmly and without resistance when on a leash that is attached to a buckle collar is not doing so because of the collar. These animals are exquisitely behaved despite the collar. Any animal that pulls or lunges while on a buckle needs another type of restraint or training device. Buckle collars-provided that they break away or can slip off, if caught-should be fitted to all animals so that tags or embroidered identification can always accompany the pet. This means that they are used in addition to, not instead of, other devices.

 

CHOKER COLLARS

Dogs are routinely fitted with devices such as choker collars as part of a training program. Choker collars are usually either made from chain or a rolled, braided nylon. When used correctly, choker collars are actually one of the best examples of true negative reinforcement: when the dog pulls, the collar tightens and either the sound or the pressure indicates that the dog has engaged in an undesirable behavior; when the dog stops, that pressure is released (and in the case of a chain, the sound of slippage occurs) and the dog is unimpeded. It is the release from the negative stimulus (the tightening of the collar) that is the reward. Unfortunately, most people do not use choke collars correctly; to do so requires a lot of work and patience. Instead, many dogs “choke” when chokers are used. When they are allowed to pull on the collar and permitted to sustain the pull, these dogs learn to override the choker. In doing so they are also at risk for laryngeal, esophageal, and ocular damage (damage in the blood vessels in they eye). Despite still being the preferred and, in some cases, the required form of restraint in a show ring, choke collars are an idea whose time may have passed. When clients can overcome their own misconceptions about how the collars look or what they mean, they will, with ever-increasing frequency, choose a head collar or a no-pull harness for their dog. When used correctly the devices are safer, easier to use, and help teach the dog better behaviors. They are a winning solution that could and perhaps should eclipse the choker.

 

HEAD COLLARS

Head collars are very much like horse halters. They act as a basket that holds the dog’s cheeks and jaws and stay on the dog by fastening high on the back of the neck. Generally, at least one strap fits over the bridge of the dog’s nose and one fits over the back of the neck. The leash in attached in the middle of the halter to the nose strap, but under the chin. This is how a lead is attached to a horse halter but is a major change for many people who are accustomed to attaching a leash directly to something around a dog’s neck. The two major versions of the head collar are the Halti (Safari Whitco, Bohemia, NY) and the Gentle Leader/Promise System Canine Head Collar (Premier Pet Products, Richmond, VA) The Halti is intended to be fitted with a second collar because it fits loosely. It also cannot be tightened to prohibit biting by pulling forward, but it fits some very jowly breeds well and snugly. The Gentle Leader/Promise System Canine Head Collar gives most dogs a better fit, requires no second collar, and can be used with a leash to correct inappropriate behaviors and prohibit biting.

Head collars are wonderful for most dogs. They spare the dog’s larynx and esophagus and thus are an ideal choice for dogs with laryngeal damage, tracheal collapse, or cervical (neck) damage involving disks, bones, nerves, or muscles. Head collars also ride high on the back of the dog’s neck so that when the leash is pulled forward or the dog pulls in the direction opposite to that of the leash, this part of the collar tightens a bit and applies a small amount of steady pressure on the area of the upper neck near the head.  Not only is this generally very safe, but also this pressure uses the same kind of signal that dogs communicate to other dogs when they wish to control them or stop them. Thus when the dog is corrected with a leash, the head collar communicates a “doggy” signal to the dog to stop. No translation is necessary, and the response is quick. For clients who are already working with a behavior modification program, this type of helpful, kind device can be a godsend. If the dog has a mouthing or biting problem, the Gentle Leader/Promise System Canine Head Collar can be gently pulled forward to firmly, safely, securely, and humanely close the dog’s mouth. When used correctly the collar cannot injure the dog and will allow the client to control most of the dog’s behaviors and stop the dog from biting.

The leverage provided by a head collar allows children and people with arthritis to walk even unruly dogs- and to enjoy it. If dog’s get more exercise they are calmer; if people enjoy being with their pets more, they will become more motivated to work with them. Head collars provide a win-win situation and are increasingly becoming the collar of first choice for a puppy. They are certainly appropriate for all life stages and have another advantage over chokers; they encourage humane behavior from people. We can use all the kindness and humanity we can learn.

As is true for any device, injury can occur if these collars are used incorrectly. The most common complaint about head collars involves loose-lipped dogs that chew on their lips because the nose piece of the collar fits too tightly. Hair on the nose can also be damaged if this occurs. A good fit is important, and some practice might be needed to determine the best adjustment of the neck strap and the nose strap.  Dogs fitted with head collars should be able to comfortably eat, drink, pant, and even bark and bite, if not corrected. These are not muzzles, they are not rubber bands around the dog’s nose, and they are not cruel or inhumane. They are great. Now that these heads collars are available in designer colors, people should accept them more readily.

 

NO-PULL HARNESSES

No-pull harnesses fit under the dog’s front legs and loop over he dog’s shoulders so that when the dog pulls, its front legs are pulled back and it slows its pace. The two main versions of these harnesses are the Lupi (Safari Whitco, Bohemia, NY) and the Sporn or No-Pull Harness (Four Paws Products Ltd., Hauppauge, NY). The No-Pull Harness has a special collar that is sewn with two different-sized metal tabs. The loose, leashlike part of the harness fits through one of the loops, under and around the legs, and is attached to the other loops, under the neck, with a clasp. The leash is then attached to the loose part of the harness over the dog’s back. The back part of the harness can be tightened for a better, more responsive, fit. The Lupi does not use any clasps or tabs but relies on a system of concentric loops that are fitted around the dog’s front legs and over its back. The leash is then affixed to the back portion, which slips to tighten if the dog pulls. The Lupi is easier to fit to very hairy dogs or for people whose hands are very arthritic. Both of these fitting patterns sound complex and like topological puzzles. They are not. Once clients have the devices in their hands, the fit becomes self-explanatory.

Such harnesses are wonderful for dogs that pull or lunge. These are not appropriate to fit to dogs whose biggest problem is biting because they do not control the dog’s mouth or head. Furthermore, reaching around the dog’s head and neck to fit these harnesses could be dangerous if the dog is aggressive to people.

When fitted correctly these harnesses easily allow children or people with arthritis to pleasurably and calmly walk their dogs. These harnesses, like head collars, spare the dog’s neck so that dogs, even if they have laryngeal, tracheal, esophageal, or spinal problems, can be safely exercised.

Caution is urged against fitting no-pull harnesses too tightly; too tight a fit could impede circulation in the dog’s front leg. Fortunately, this is difficult to accomplish.

 

Here is a great article written by Dr Karen Overall, a board-certified Veterinary Behaviorist

B-2 PROTOCOL FOR RELAXATION:

BEHAVIOR MODIFICATION TIER 1

 

Introduction

This program is the foundation for all other behavior modification programs.  Its purpose is to teach the dog to sit and stay while relaxing in a variety of circumstances.  The circumstances change from very reassuring ones with you present to potentially more stressful ones when you are absent.  The purpose of the program is not to teach the dog to sit; sitting (or lying down, if the dog is more comfortable) is only a tool.  The goals of the program are to teach the dog to relax, to defer to you, to enjoy earning a salary for an appropriate, desirable behavior, and to develop, as a foundation, a pattern of behaviors that allow the dog to cooperate with future behavior modification (generally desensitization and counter conditioning).  This protocol acts as a foundation for teaching the dog context-specific appropriate behavior.  The focus is to teach the dog to rely on you for all the cues as to the appropriateness of its behavior so that it can then learn not to react inappropriately.

 

About Food Treats

This program uses food treats. Please read the logic behind this approach in the “Protocol of Deference: Basic Program”.  Remember, the treats are used as a salary or reward-not as a bribe.  If you bribe a problem dog, you are defeated before you start.  It is difficult to work with a problem dog that has learned to manipulate bribes, but there are creative ways-often involving the use of head collars- to correct this situation.  First, find a food that the dog likes and that it does not usually experience.  Suggestions include boiled, slivered chicken or tiny pieces of cheese.  Boiled, shredded chicken can be frozen portions and defrosted as needed.  Individually wrapped slices of cheese can be divided into tiny pieces suitable for behavior modification while still wrapped in plastic, minimizing waste and mess.  Consider the following guidelines in choosing a food reward:

1. Foods that are high in protein may help induce change in brain chemistry that help the dog relax
2. Dogs should not have chocolate because it can be toxic to them
3. Some dogs do not do well with treats that contain artificial colors or preservatives
4. Dogs with food allergies or those taking monoamine oxidase inhibitor (MAOI) drugs may have food restrictions (cheese, for dogs take MAOIs (deprenyl]).  A good treat for dogs with allergies are ‘Prescription Diet Hypoallergenic Treats’ or pieces of Canine z/d Ultra.
5. Dog biscuits generally are not sufficient motivation, but some foods are so desirable that the dog is too stimulated by them to ralex-something between these two extremes is preferred
6. Treats should be tiny (less than half the size of a thumb-nail) so that the dog dose not get full, fat or bored
7. If the dog stops responding for one kind of treat, try another
8. Do not let treats make up the bulk of the dog’s diet; the dog need its normal, well-balanced ration

 

The Reward Process

Rewarding dogs with food treats is an art. Learning to do so correctly helps the dog focus on the exercises and keeps everyone safe.  To prevent the dog lunging for the food, keep the already prepared treats in a little cup or plastic bag behind your back and keep one treat in the hand used to reward the dog.  That hand can then either be kept behind your back so that the dog does not stare at the food or can be moved to your eye so that you can teach the dog to look happy and make eye contact with you. The food treat must be small so that the focus of the dog’s attention is not a slab of food but rather your cues.  A treat of the correct size can be closed in the palm of the hand by folding the fingers and will not be apparent when held between the thumb and fore-fingers.  When presenting the dog with the treat, bring the hand, with a lightly closed fist, up quickly to the dog (do not startle the dog) and turn your wrist to open your hand.

When starting the program, let the dog smell and taste the reward so that it knows the anticipated reward for the work.  If the dog is too terrified to approach, you can place a small amount of the treat on the floor.  Then ask the dog to “Sit”; if the dog sits instantly, say “Good girl (boy)!” and instantly open your hand to give the dog the treat instantly while saying “stay.”

 

Getting the Dog’s Attention

If the dog does not sit instantly, call its name again.  As soon as the dog looks at or attends to you, say “Sit.”  If the dog will not look at you and pay attention, do not continue to say “Sit.”  If you continue to give a command that you can not reinforce, the dog learns to ignore that command. If necessary, use a whistle or make an unusual sound with your lips to get the dog’s attention.  As soon as the dog looks at you, say ‘Sit.”  Use a cheerful voice. Some people may hay to soften or lower their voice almost to a whisper to get the dog to pay attention to them.  Often this is because they have given all their pervious command to the dog by yelling. The dog has very successfully learned to ignore this.

If the dog is looking at you but not sitting, approach the dog to close the distance, raise the treat gently to your eyes, and request “Sit.”  Often just moving toward a dog helps the dog sit.  Not only have you decreased the distance, but you appear taller and to be over the dog; such behaviors are used in canine communication to get the lower ( in relative elevation) dog to obey the desires of the higher one.  You can use these innate dog behaviors as long are careful.  Never back up a dog that is growling.  Never corner a fearful dog.  Never continue to approach a dog that acts more aggressively the closer you come.  Remember, the point of the program is to teach the dog to relax and look to you for the cues about appropriateness of its behavior.  The dog cannot do this if upset.

If the dog still will not sit, consider using a head collar.  By using a long-distance lead you can request that the dog “sit” and gently enforce this from a distance by pulling on the lead.  Reward with a treat as soon as the dog sits.

 

Cautionary Note:

If your dog is aggressive or if you are concerned about approaching it, do not do any of these exercises off-lead until the dog is perfect on-lead.  Fit the dog with a head collar and work with the dog only on a lead at the outset.  The halter allows you to close the dog’s mouth if the dog begins to be aggressive.  This is an ideal correction because it meets the rule the psychologists have established for ideal “punishment”: you have interrupted the dog’s inappropriate behavior within the first few seconds of the beginning of the behavior so that the dog can from the experience.  Be gentle but consistent.  Taking your anger or fear out on the dog will only worsen the behavior.  As soon as the dog respond to the halter and calmly sits, reward the dog and continue.  Never reward a dog that is growling, lunging, barking, shaking, or urinating.

 

After the dog sits for the first time you ready to begin the program.  Remember the following guideline:

1. Use the dog’s name to get the dog to orient toward you and to pay attention. If this dose not works, use a whistle or a sound to which the dog is not accustomed.
2. Once the dog is attending to you (paying attention) say “sit” and give the dog 3 to 5 seconds to respond. If the dog does sit, reward it instantly; if not, repeat the “sit” command in the same calm, cheerful voice. You may want to experiment with voices to see the tonal qualities to which you do g best responds.
3.  Do not worry about using the dog’s name frequently or about repeating the commands if the dog responds. This is not obedience class; the dog will do well if it did well on these programs. Making the adjustment will not be a problem.
4. Do not chase the dog around the room to try to get it to comply with you. If necessary, choose a small room with minimal distractions and use a leash. A head collar provides even more instantaneous response. Use head halter and other collars kindly.

A sample sequence could look like this:

“ Bonnie – sit – (second pause) – sit – (3second pause) – Bonnie, sit – (move closer to the dog and move the treat to your eye) – sit – (Bonnie sits) – good girl! (Treat) – stay – good girl – stay (take a step backward while saying “stay” then stop) stay Bonnie – good girl – stay (return while saying “stay” – then stop) – stay bonnie – good girl! (treat) – okay (the releaser and Bonnie can get up)!” – (Bonnie Happily Gets up and watches calmly for your next signal.)

Note that you talk nonstop to the dog during these programs.  This type of talking is not allowed in obedience class but is desperately needed with inexperienced puppies and problem dogs.  These dogs need all the cues that they can get.  They need the constant guidance and reassurance of hearing your voice with clear instructions.  These instructions and reassurance should occur in the context and shaping or gradually guiding their behavior toward more appropriate behaviors.  You will have to learn to read subtle cues that your dog is giving and use these to your advantage.  You will find it easier than you believe.  The one thing that you absolutely cannot do is to talk a continuous stream to the dog without receiving the context-appropriate responses to your requests.  If you rush through everything, you will only stress the dog and teach it to ignore everything you say.  This is not good.  A corollary of this admonition is that it is necessary to use consistent terminology and brief phase and to do so in an environment when no one else is carrying on long, loud, distracting.

 

Avoiding problems

Do not push or pull on your dog or tug on its collar to get the dog to sit.  These types of behaviors can be viewed as challenges by some dogs and may make them potentially dangerous.  Use the methods discussed previously.  If you really believe that the dog needs some physical help in sitting, use a head collar.

Do not wave your hands or treat around in front of the dog.  This acts as a distraction and confuses the dog.  Part of the point of this program is to make the dog calmer and less confused.  Excitable behavior on your part or unclear signals can make your dog more anxious.  This does not help.  It is important to be calm.  Your dog will make mistakes.  This does not reflect on you.  Problem dogs and new puppies require a lot of patience.  The people who have had most success with these protocols have been those who work the hardest and most consistently.

Do not let your dog be a jack-in-the box.  You must control the situation, and you must achieve that control by convincing the dog to defer to you.  If the dog gets up to get the treat every time it is offered, the dog just controlled the situation.  If the dog does this, consider whether you were too far away from the dog when offered the treat. If so, move closer.  Ideally, the dog should be able to get the treat just by stretching its neck.  The dog should not need to get up.  If you have a small dog, this may mean that you need to squat down to offer the reward. Be careful if the dog is aggressive because your face is now close to the dog. If you are close enough for the dog to do the exercise properly and the dog still get up, close your hand over the treat and say “No.”

One advantage of holing the treat tin this manner is that you can safely deny the dog the treat as the last second if the dog acts inappropriately. Then ask the dog to sit again. After the dog sits, say “Stay,” wait 3 to 5 seconds, say “Stay” again, and then give the treat.  The two “stays” with the period between them will reinforce the dog that it cannot get up when it wants to-the dog must be released.  By asking the dog to stay twice, you are telling it that whenever it makes a mistake, it must do two things to recover from it.  A sample sequence follows:

“Susie – sit – (3 to 5 second pause) – sit – (Susie sits) – good girl! – stay (start to give treat and dog gets up) – no! – (close hand over treat) – sit – (Susie sits) – stay – (3 to 5 second pause)

stay – good girl! – stay (give treat) – Okay!” (Dog is no w allowed to get up and dose so.)

do not tell the dog that it is good if it is not.  Do not reward shaking, growling, whining, or any other behavior that may be a component of the behavior you are trying to correct.  If the dog gets inpatient and barks for attention, say “No! Quiet! – stay – good girl – stay – good girl – (treat) – stay….” If a vocal command is not sufficient to quiet the dog, remember that a head collar (especially the Gentle Leader/Promise) can be pulled forward to close the mouth and abort the bark before it starts, so that your correction is the most appropriate possible.

Finally, if you accidentally drop a food treat and the dog gets up to get it, do not correct the dog (the dog did not make the mistake and you did not deliberately drop the treat). Just start at the last point.

 

The Protocol

The protocol is a program that was designed so that your dog could learn from it without becoming stressed and without learning to ignore the task because they were too predictable.  The protocol intersperses long activities with short ones.  You may have to adjust some activities to your particular.  The pattern is actually spelled out in the program.  It is preferable to reward the dog only for performing each task perfectly.  If this is not possible for your dog, you can use a “shaping” procedure in which you first reward the dog for a behavior that approaches that indicated in the task.  The next time you do the task, the behavior must be closer to perfect to be rewarded.  If the program is done correctly, your dog will perform the task perfectly within a short time.

The Protocol is a foundation for desensitizing and counter conditioning your dog to situations in which it reacts inappropriately.  The pages can be used as one day’s tasks, or you may proceed at the dog’s pace (which may be faster or slower).  Some exercises are weird (asking you to run in circles or talk to people who do not exist), but these can be very helpful in getting dogs to learn to relax in a variety of circumstances.  Before you start the actual exercises, you must practice with the dog so that it can sit perfectly for 15 seconds without moving.  Do this with food treats as described previously.  Once your dog can sit this way and look happy and as if it worshipped the ground you walk on, you are ready for the more challenging stuff.

Theoretically the tasks are grouped in 15- to 20-minute units.  Your dog may have to more slowly or may be able to go quickly.  This is not a race, and people who push their dogs too quickly create additional anxiety problems!  Watch you dog’s cues.  Once the animal can sit for 15 second perfectly, reward it only when it approaches perfect behavior or perfection on the other exercises.  Use the shaping behaviors discussed previously if needed.  Use the shaping behaviors discussed previously if needed.  If needed the dog really cannot perform an exercise or task, return to one that the dog knows flawlessly, reward the perfect performance, and stop.  Every member of the family is to work 15 to 20 minutes per day with the dog, but it may less anxiety provoking and more stimulating for the dog if this is done in three or four 5-minute segments.

If everyone in the family cannot or will not work with the dog, the people who are not participating must not sabotage the program.  They minimally must comply with “The Protocol for Deference.”  If they cannot of will not do this, they should not be interacting with the dog at all.  If there is a problem with non-cooperation in the household, the dog will not behave as well as it can.

Remember that the key to success are consistency and appropriate rewards.  This means that, although we want you to work 15 to 20 minutes once or twice per day, you should work only for as long as both you and the dog are enjoying and benefiting from the program.  If this means that you use six 5-minute intervals to accomplish three or four of the task, that is fine. Please do not end on a bad note.  If the dog’s behavior is deteriorating or its attention is dissipating, do one final, fun, easy exercise and stop.  By pushing the dog past its limits, you induce anxiety, and the dog back-slides.

When the dog is able to perform all of the task and exercises both on- and off-lead in one location (the living room), repeat them all in other rooms and circumstances (the backyard or the park – use a lead here).  When the dog performs all the tasks perfectly in all places with all household members, you are ready for Tier2 of the protocols, which focuses on your dog’s specific problems.

If at any point you connate get past one task, try breaking that task into two or three component parts.  If this still does not help, call the veterinarian who recommended program and who is working with the dog’s behavior problem.  He or she will be able to help you determine the root of the problem.  Please do not just continue accepting suboptimal responses.  The goal is to improve your dog’s behavior.  Video taping while you work with the dog can help.  Not only can you show the veterinarian what you are doing, but also you can be a more objective critic of your approach if you are not also and active participant.

Finally, remember that the dog will give you lots of cues about how it feels.  We are rewarding the physical changes associated with relaxation and happiness and so will also reward the underlying physiological states associated with this (parasympathetic part of the autonomic nervous system).  This means that if the dog is relaxed, its body is not stiff, the jaws hang relaxed and are not tense, the ears are alert or cocked but not rigid, its head is held gently at an angle, and the eyes are clam and adoring, you will be rewarding the nervous system responses that help your dog learn.  If you mistakenly reward fear, tension, aggression, or avoidance, you will not make ass much progress.  If it is easier for you and the dog to be relaxed if the dog is lying down, do that.

Good luck, and do not get discouraged.  Many dogs go through a period of 3 to 7 days when their behavior gets worse before it improves.  For the first time in their life the dogs have a rule structure they must follow, and they get frustrated while learning it.  As they discover they will improve.  These programs are more difficult for the people, in many ways, than they are for the dogs.  Stick with it!

A sample map/floor plan is provided that illustrates a physical layout that work well for these types of protocols.

 

PROTOCOL TASK SHEETS

The task is listed on the left.  To the right is a space for your comments about the degree of difficulty of the task for the dog, how many times it had to be repeated, or other questionable behaviors that appeared during the task. You should discuss these with your veterinarian at the reexamination appointment.

Remember after each task to verbally praise the dog and reward it with a treat for perfect performance before going on to the next task. Each set of exercises is designed for a day or a block of time.  Warm-up and cool-down periods are provided.

At the first sign of any anxiety (lips retracted, pupils dilated, head lowered, ear pulled down and back, trembling, scanning), return to an exercise with which the dog is more comfortable or break down the exercise that produced these behaviors into smaller steps.

 

Day1: Dog’s Task

Sit for 5 seconds

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit while you take 1 step back and return

Sit while you take 2 steps back and return

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit while you take 1 step to the right and return

Sit while you take 1 step to the left and return

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit while you take 2 steps back and return

Sit while you take 2 steps to the right and return

Sit for 15 seconds

Sit while you take 2 steps to the left and return

Sit while you clap you clap your hands softly once

Sit while you take 3 steps back and return

Sit while you count out loud to 10

Sit while you clap you clap your hands softly once

Sit while you count out loud to 20

Sit while you take 3 steps to the right and return

Sit for 3 seconds

Sit for 5 seconds

Sit while you take 1 step back and return

Sit for 3 seconds

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit for 5 seconds

Sit for 3 seconds

 

Day 2:Dog’s Task

Sit for 5 seconds

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit while you take 1 step back and return

Sit while you take 3 steps back and return

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit while you take 3 steps to the right and return

Sit while you take 3 steps to the left and return

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit while you take 3 steps to the right and clap your hands

Sit while you take 3 steps to the left and clap your hands

Sit for 5 seconds

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit while you walk o fourth of the way around the dog to the right

Sit while you take 4 steps back

Sit while you walk one fourth of the way around the dog to the left

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit while you take 5 steps the back from the dog, clapping, your hands, and return

Sit while you walk halfway around the dog to the right and return

Sit while you walk halfway around the dog to the left and return

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit while you jog quietly in place for 3 seconds

Sit while you jog quietly in place for 5 seconds

Sit while you jog quietly in place for 10 seconds

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit while you jog one fourth of the way around the dog to the right and return

Sit while you jog one fourth of the way around the dog to the left and return

Sit for 5 seconds

Sit for 10 seconds

 

Day 3: Dog’s Task

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit for 15 seconds

Sit while you take 2 steps backward and return

Sit while you jog 5 steps backward from the dog and return

Sit while you walk halfway around the dog to the right and return

Sit while you walk halfway around the dog to the left and return

Sit while you take 10 steps backward and return

Sit for 15 seconds

Sit while you take 10 steps to the left and return

Sit while you take 10 steps to the right and return

Sit for 20 seconds

Sit while you walk halfway around the dog to the right. Clapping your hands, and return

Sit for 20 seconds

Sit while you walk halfway around the dog to the left. Clapping your hands, and return

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit while you jog 10 steps to the right and return

Sit while you jog 10 steps to the left and return

Sit while you jog in place for 10 seconds

Sit for 15 seconds

Sit while you jog in place for 20 seconds

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit while you jog backward 5 steps and return

Sit while you jog to the right 5 steps and return

Sit while you jog to the left 5 steps and return

Sit for 5 seconds while you clap your hands

Sit for 10 seconds while you clap your hands

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit for 5 seconds

 

Day 4: Dog’s Task

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit while you jog backward 5 steps and return

Sit for 20 seconds

Sit while you jog halfway around the dog to the right and return

Sit while you joy halfway around the dog to the left and return

Sit while you move three fourth of the way around the dog to the right and return

Sit while you move three fourth of the way around the dog to the left and return

Sit while you jog backward 5 steps, clapping your hands, and return

Sit for 10 second

Sit while you clap your hands for 20 seconds

Sit while you move quickly backward 10 steps and return

Sit while you move quickly 15 steps backward and return

Sit for 20 seconds

Sit while you jog halfway around the dog to the right and return

Sit while you jog halfway around the dog to the left and return

Sit while you walk quickly 15 steps to the left and return

Sit while you walk quickly 15 steps to the right and return

Sit for 20 seconds

Sit while you move three fourths of the way around the dog to the right and return

Sit while you move three fourths of the way around the dog to the left and return

Sit while you walk all the way around the dog

Sit while you walk approximately 20 steps to an entrance and return

Sit while you walk approximately 20 steps to an entrance, clapping your hands, and return

Sit while you walk around the dog, quietly clapping hands, and then return

Sit for 20 seconds

Sit while you jog quickly around the dog

Sit for 20 seconds

Sit for 10 seconds while you clap your hands

 

Day 5: Dog’s Task

Sit for 5 seconds

Sit for 15 seconds

Sit while you walk quickly 15 steps to the right and return

Sit while you walk quickly 15 steps to the left and return

Sit while you walk approximately 20 steps to an entrance and return

Sit while you walk approximately 20 steps to an entrance, clapping your hands, and return

Sit for 20 seconds

Sit while you walk around the dog, clapping your hands

Sit for 20 seconds

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit while you walk quickly backward, clapping your hands, and return

Sit while you walk approximately 20 steps to an entrance and return

Sit while you walk approximately 20 steps to an entrance, clapping your hands, and return

Sit while you go to an entrance and just touch the doorknob or wall and return

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit while you walk quickly backward, clapping your hands, and return

Sit while you walk approximately 20 steps to an entrance and return

Sit while you walk approximately 20 steps to an entrance, clapping your hands, and return

Sit while you go to an entrance and just touch the doorknob or wall and return

Sit for 20 seconds

Sit while you walk approximately 20 steps to an entrance, clapping your hands, and return

Sit while you go to an entrance and just touch the doorknob or wall and return

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit while the doorknob is touch or you move into entryway and return

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit for 15 seconds while you clap your hands

Sit for 10 seconds while you jog in place

Sit for 5 seconds

 

Day 6: Dog’s Task

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit for 20 seconds while you jog back and forth in front of the dog

Sit for 15 seconds

Sit while you walk approximately 20 steps to an entrance, clapping your hands, and return

Sit while you walk quickly backward, clapping your hands, and return

Sit while you go to an entrance and just touch the doorknob or wall and return

Sit for 20 seconds while jogging

Sit while you walk around the dog

Sit while you walk around the dog, clapping your hands

Sit for 15 seconds

Sit for 20 seconds

Sit for 30 seconds

Sit while you walk quickly backward, clapping your hands, and return

Sit while you go to an entrance and just touch the doorknob or wall and return

Sit while you open the door or go into the entrance way for 5 seconds and return

Sit while you open the door or go into the entrance way for 10 seconds and return

Sit for 30 seconds

Sit while you walk quickly backward, clapping your hands, and return

Sit while you go to an entrance and just touch the doorknob or wall and return

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit while you go through the door or the entrance way and return

Sit while you go through the door or the entrance way, clapping your hands, and return

Sit while you open the door or go into the entrance way for 10 seconds and return

Sit for 30 seconds

Sit while you disappear from view for 5 seconds and return

Sit for 20 seconds

Sit for 10 seconds while you clap your hands

Sit for 5 seconds

 

Day 7: dog’s Task

Sit for 10 second

Sit for 20 seconds while you clap your hands

Sit while you take 10 steps backward and return

Sit while you walk around the dog

Sit while you go through the door or the entrance way and then return

Sit while you go through the door or the entrance way, clapping hands, and return

Sit while you open the door or go through the entrance way for 10 seconds and return

Sit for 30 seconds

Sit while you disappear from view for 5 seconds and return

Sit while you go through the door or entrance way and return

Sit while you go through the door or the entrance way, clapping your hands, and return

Sit while you open the door or go through the entrance way for 10 seconds and return

Sit for 30 seconds

Sit while you disappear from view for 10 seconds and return

Sit while you disappear from view for 15 seconds and return

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit for 15 seconds

Sit for 5 seconds while you clap your hands

Sit while you jog in place for 10 seconds

Sit while you jog three fourth of the way to the left and return

Sit while you go through the door or the entrance way, clapping your hands, and return

Sit while you open the door or go through the entrance way for 10 seconds and return

Sit for 30 seconds

Sit while you disappear from view for 15 seconds and return

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit for 5 seconds

 

Day 8: Dog’s Task

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit for 15 seconds while you jog and clap your hands

Sit while you circle the dog and return

Sit while you disappear from view for 20 seconds and return

Sit while you disappear from view for 25 seconds and return

Sit for 5 seconds

Sit for 5 seconds while you sit in a chair (placed 5 feet from the dog)

Sit for 5 seconds

Sit for 15 seconds while you jog and clap your hands

Sit while you back up 15 steps and return

Sit while you circle the dog and return

Sit while you disappear from view for 20 seconds and return

Sit while you disappear from view for 30 seconds and return

Sit for 5 seconds

Sit while you circle the dog and return

Sit while you disappear from view for 20 seconds and return

Sit while you disappear from view for 25 seconds and return

Sit for 5 seconds while you sit in a chair near the dog

Sit while you disappear from view for 10 seconds, sit in a chair for 5 seconds, and return

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit for 20 seconds while you jog and clap your hands

Sit for 15 seconds while you run around the dog

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit for 5 seconds while you turn around

Sit for 5 seconds while you sit in a chair near the dog

Sit while you disappear from view for 10 seconds, sit in a chair for 5 seconds, and return

Sit for 10 seconds

 

Day 9: Dog’s Task

Sit for 5 seconds

Sit for 10 seconds while you turn around

Sit for 5 seconds while you jog

Sit while you walk around the dog

Sit while you jog around the dog

Sit while you jog around the dog, clapping your hands

Sit while you jog twice around the dog

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit for 15 seconds while you clap your hands

Sit for 20 seconds

Sit while you move three fourth of the way around the dog to the right and return

Sit while you move three fourth of the way around the dog to the left and return

Sit while you disappear from view for 10 seconds and return

Sit while you circle the dog and return

Sit while you disappear from view for 20 seconds and return

Sit while you disappear from view for 25 seconds and return

Sit while you disappear from view for 10 seconds, sit in a chair for 5 second, and return

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit while you bend down and touch your toes

Sit while you stretch your arms

Sit while you stretch your arms and jump once

Sit while you touch your toes 5 times

Sit while you stretch your arms and jump 3 times

Sit for 15 seconds

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit for 5 seconds

 

Day 10: dog’s Task

Sit for 5 seconds while you clap

Sit for 10 seconds while you your toes

Sit for 15 seconds while you sit in a chair

Sit while you walk quickly 15 steps to the right and return

Sit while you walk quickly 15 steps to the left and return

Sit while you walk approximately 20 steps to an entrance and return

Sit while you disappear from view for 5 seconds and return

Sit while you disappear from view for 10 seconds and return

Sit while you disappear from view for 15 seconds and return

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit for 5 seconds

Sit while you walk quickly 15 steps to the right and return

Sit while you walk quickly 15 steps to the left and return

Sit while you walk approximately 20 steps to an entrance and return

Sit while you disappear from view for 5 seconds and return

Sit while you disappear from view for 10 seconds and return

Sit while you disappear from view for 15 seconds and return

Sit while you disappear from view for 5 seconds, knock softly, on the wall, and return

Sit for 5 seconds

Sit while you disappear from view for 5 seconds and return

Sit while you disappear from view for 10 seconds and return

Sit while you disappear from view for 15 seconds and return

Sit while you disappear from view for 5 seconds, knock softly, on the wall, and return

Sit while you disappear from view, knock quickly but softly on the wall, and return

Sit for 5 seconds

Sit while you disappear from view for 10 seconds, knock softly, on the wall, and return

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit for 5 seconds

 

Day 11: Dog’s Task

Sit for 5 seconds

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit while you disappear from view, knock quickly but softly on the wall, and return

Sit for 5 seconds

Sit while you disappear from view for 10 seconds, knock softly, on the wall, and return

Sit for 30 seconds

Sit while you disappear from view, ring the doorbell, and immediately return

Sit while you disappear from view, ring the doorbell, wait 2 seconds, and return

Sit for 30 seconds

Sit while you disappear from view, ring the doorbell, and immediately return

Sit while you disappear from view, ring the doorbell, wait 5 seconds, and return

Sit for 30 seconds

Sit while you disappear from view, ring the doorbell, and immediately return

Sit while you disappear from view, ring the doorbell, wait 10 seconds, and return

Sit for 5 seconds while you jog around the dog

Sit while you walk around the dog

Sit while you walk around the dog, clapping your hands

Sit while you jog twice around the dog

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit for 15 seconds while you clap your hands

Sit for 20 seconds

Sit while you move three fourth of the way around the dog to the right and return

Sit while you move three fourth of the way around the dog to the left and return

Sit while you disappear from view for 10 seconds and return

Sit while you circle the dog and return

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit for 5 seconds

 

Day 12: Dog’s task

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit for 5 seconds while you clap your hands

Sit for 15 seconds

Sit for 20 seconds while you hum

Sit while you disappear from view for 20 seconds and return

Sit while you disappear from view for 25 seconds and return

Sit for 5 seconds while you sit in a chair near the dog

Sit while you disappear from view for 10 seconds, sit in a chair for 5 second, and return

Sit for 15 seconds

Sit for 20 seconds while you hum

Sit while you disappear from view for 20 seconds and return

Sit while you disappear from view for 25 seconds and return

Sit while you move three fourth of the way around the dog to the right and return

Sit while you move three fourth of the way around the dog to the left and return

Sit while you disappear from view for 10 seconds and return

Sit while you circle the dog and return

Sit while you disappear from view, knock quickly but softly on the wall, and return

Sit for 5 seconds

Sit while you disappear from view for 10 seconds, knock softly on the wall, and return

Sit for 30 seconds

Sit while you disappear from view, ring the doorbell, and immediately return

Sit while you disappear from view, ring the doorbell, wait 2 seconds, and return

Sit for 30 seconds

Sit while you disappear from view, say ”hello,” and return

Sit while you disappear from view, say ”hello,” wait 3 seconds, and return

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit for 5 seconds

 

Day 13: Dog’s Task

Sit for 5 second

Sit for 15 seconds while you hum

Sit for 15 seconds while you clap your hands and hum

Sit while you disappear from view for 20 seconds and return

Sit while you disappear from view for 25 seconds and return

Sit for 5 seconds while you sit in a chair near the dog

Sit while you disappear from view for 10 seconds, sit in a chair for 5 seconds, and return

Sit for 5 seconds

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit while you disappear from view, knock quickly but softly on the wall, and return

Sit for 5 seconds

Sit while you disappear from view for 10 seconds, knock softly on the wall, and return

Sit for 30 seconds

Sit while you disappear from view, ring the doorbell, and immediately return

Sit while you disappear from view, ring the doorbell, wait 2 seconds, and return

Sit for seconds

Sit while you disappear from view, say “hello,” wait 5 seconds, and return

Sit while you disappear from view, ring the doorbell, say “hello,” wait 5 seconds, and return

Sit for 30 seconds

Sit while you disappear from view, say “hello,” wait 5 seconds, and return

Sit while you disappear from view, ring the doorbell, say “hello,” wait 5 seconds, and return

Sit fro 20 seconds while you hum

Sit for 15 seconds while you clap your hands

Sit for 5 seconds

Sit while you jog around the dog

Sit for 10 seconds while you clap your hands and hum

Sit for 5 seconds while you jog in place

Sit while you jog around the dog, humming

 

Day 14: Dog’s Task

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit for 10seconds

Sit for 5 seconds while you clap your hands and hum

Sit while you run around the dog

Sit while you walk back and fourth to the door

Sit while you leave the room, quickly knock or ring the door bell, and return

Sit for 5 seconds

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit for 5 seconds while you clap your hands and hum

Sit while you run around the dog

Sit while you walk back and fourth to the door

Sit while you leave the room, quickly knock or ring the doorbell, and return

Sit for 5 seconds

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit while you disappear from view for 10 seconds, knock softly on the wall, and return

Sit for 30 seconds

Sit while you disappear from view, ring the doorbell, and immediately return

Sit while you disappear from view, ring the doorbell, wait 2 seconds, and return

Sit for 30 seconds

Sit while you disappear from view, say “hello,” wait 5 seconds, and return

Sit while you disappear from view, ring the doorbell, say “hello,” wait 10 seconds, and return

Sit for 30 seconds

Sit while you disappear from view, say “hello, “ wait 10 seconds, and return

Sit while you disappear from view, knock or ring the doorbell, say “hello,” wait 10 seconds, and return

Sit for 20 seconds while you hum

Sit for 20 seconds

Sit for 5 second

 

Day 15: Day’s Task

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit for 5 seconds

Sit for 15 while you clap your hands and hum

Sit while you disappear from view, knock or ring the doorbell, say “hello,” wait 10 seconds, and return

Sit for 20 seconds while you hum

Sit while you disappear from view, say “hello,” invite the imaginary person in, wait 5 seconds, and return

Sit for 10 seconds

Sit for 5 seconds

Sit while you disappear from view, say “hello,” invite the imaginary person in, wait 10 seconds, and return

Sit while you disappear from view, say “hello,” talk (as if o someone) for 5 seconds, and return

Sit for 5 seconds while you clap your hands and hum

Sit while you run around the dog

Sit while you leave the room, quickly knock or ring the doorbell, and return

Sit for 5 second

Sit while you leave the room, knock or ring the doorbell for 3 seconds, and return

Sit while you leave the room and knock or ring the doorbell for 5 seconds

Sit while leave the room and talk for 3 seconds to people who are not there

Sit while leave the room and talk for 5 seconds to people who are not there

Sit while leave the room and talk for 10 seconds to people who are not there

Sit while you round the dog

Sit for 10 seconds while you sit in a chair

Sit for 30 seconds while you sit in a chair

Sit for 15 seconds while you clap your hands and jog

Sit for 5 seconds

 

 

For  Future Repetitions

• Repeat all task in different locations
• Repeat all task with all family member
• Repeat all tasks with only every second or third task being rewarded with a treat. (Remember praise!)
• Repeat with only intermittent treat reinforcement.(Remember praise!)

 

USE OF ESSENTIAL OILS FOR TICK, MOSQUITO,
FLY, LICE AND FLEA PREVENTION

Dr Julie Schell   BSc(Hons), DVM, CVA, CVCHM, CVC

Veterinary recommended, safe tick collars and topical treatments are excellent at helping prevent tick and flea, lice and mosquito infestations in dogs.   However, if they are not available, or if your dog is reactive to these types of chemical-based products, or if you would like to treat your pet more naturally, I recommend the safe use of essential oil therapy.   Many of the chemical tick prevention treatments for dogs contain permethrins, which are not safe for use in cats due to toxicity issues, therefore essential oils can be used instead.

Many veterinarians trained in herb and essential oil therapy understand and use natural essential oil sprays that contain lavender, peppermint, eucalyptus, catnip, lemon, citronella, lemongrass, rosemary, malaleuca, oregano, palo santo, and basil to help repel mosquitoes, fleas, and lice as well as ticks.  More research is currently being done to determine the efficacy of other types of essential oils and herbs as well.

Essential oils are natural compounds in plants.   Each plant has specific oils, often to help prevent itself from invasion from parasites, bacteria and insects.  Once extracted then diluted, these essential oil mixes can be safe for medicinal use in pets.

It is important to work with your veterinarian to ensure that the oils are used safely and effectively.

For more information contact us www.bowbottomvet.com or 403 278 1984.
We are currently stocking our own ‘Atomic Bug/Tick Spray’ made in-clinic! Come on by and ask us about it today!

References:

Some of the many journal articles available on Pubmed:

1. Mint , citronella, to repel ticks:   http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19897309
2. Catnip deters feeding of ticks:   http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19645285
3. Lavender  for tick control:  http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/20433836
4. Rosemary:  http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/20695287
5. Lemon to repel mosquitoes:  http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/22903418
6. Catnip to repel flies:  http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/22903418

Textbooks:

Shelton, Melissa;  Animal Desk Reference, Essential Oils for Animals;  2012

Shelton, Melissa;   Essential Oils for Natural Pet Care;  2011

www.oilyvet.com

MOXIBUSTION

BOW BOTTOM VETERINARY HOSPITAL
Dr Julie Schell  BSc(Hons), DVM, CVA, CVCHM, CVC

 

Moxibustion, also known as moxa treatment, is use of heat and aroma radiated from an ignited, condensed mugwort herb stick that is passed above specific acupuncture points.  It is very helpful for augmenting acupuncture treatments, dispersing stagnation, decreasing pain, improving blood circulation, decreasing Dampness (which is a pathological condition in Traditional Chinese Veterinary Medicine), improving Qi  circulation, and decreases Cold invasion (it helps warm the patient).

I often prescribe moxa sticks for pet owners to use at home along with their other treatments.  When ignited, the moxa stick is very hot, so caution must be taken to prevent the pet’s or pet owner’s fur or skin to be burnt.

Directions for use:

1.  Ignite the moxa stick using a BBQ lighter—the smokeless moxa rolls usually take about 30 to 60 seconds to light because they are so dense.  You will know if it is ignited when gently blowing on the end of the stick reveals a red/orange ember glow.

2.  Pass the moxa stick about 1cm to 2cm above the designated areas for the length of time prescribed by Dr. Schell.  She will usually prescribe 3 to 5minutes per treatment.

3.  When finished the treatment, extinguish the moxa stick using a moxa stick snuffer, a cigar snuffer or a shot glass or other small glass filled with clay cat litter.  Do not use water to extinguish the moxa roll as it can damage the roll.

4.  After several uses, the moxa stick will become shorter and shorter.  When it becomes too short to work with, a new one should be started.

Dr Schell will let you know how often it should be used for your pet.   Usually it is prescribed for 4 to 5 days in a row after a traumatic event or during the healing procedures.  Dr Schell often recommends using moxa sticks on cold or damp days or when the pet seems stiff due to cold or dampness in the environment.

For our video demonstration, check out:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B1CncH6HfWw

If you have any questions or concerns, contact us at www.bowbottomvet.com

SENIOR PETS HAVE SPECIAL NEEDS

Dr. Julie Schell  BSc(Hons), DVM, CVA, CVCHM, CVC

Pets speed through their life stages, much faster than humans.  One year to a human is equivalent to 5 years in a dog or cat.  Because of this fast aging process, senior pets have special needs.  They definitely need to be examined by your veterinarian every 6 months, twice yearly.  This is to help diagnose and cure health issues that they may have before it’s too late.

Did you know that most large-breed dogs are considered seniors at 7 years of age?  Cats are considered to be seniors when they are 10 years old.

Senior dogs and cats are at a greater risk for conditions affecting the heart, kidney, and liver.  They are also more susceptible to arthritis, cancers, thyroid disorders and diabetes.  Through twice-yearly thorough physical consultations as well as blood and urine analyses and blood pressure monitoring, your veterinarian is able to identify animals that appear clinically ‘normal’ but may be developing early signs of organ dysfunction.  Animals unfortunately cannot tell us when they are in pain or discomfort. This is why it is important to be pro-active so that diseases can be identified early.  By diagnosing and treating medical problems before your pet becomes sick, longevity and quality of life will be improved.

Quality nutrition is also very important for senior pets.  They generally have a lower metabolism and thus require fewer calories per day.  They also have a higher risk for cancers and organ problems feeding extra vitamins, anti-oxidants and minerals, they are able to be more resistant against these diseases.  Your veterinarian will help you choose a food that meets the needs of senior pets.

Joint supplements such as glucosamine HCl and omega-3 fatty acids can help reduce the signs and discomfort associated with age-related arthritis.  Regular exercise and keeping your pet at his or her ideal weight will help prevent wear and tear on he joints and therefore decrease arthritis.  Acupuncture, chiropractic, herbal medicine, massage and essential oil therapy are also excellent ways of keeping joints mobile and strong, thus decreasing injury.

Elevating food and water bowls to prevent excess strain on their neck or front legs while eating or drinking is helpful.   Non-slip flooring is also helpful- such as a yoga mat in high traffic areas and in from of their food and water.

Comfortable bedding is also helpful at decreasing joint pain.  Check out the Kuranda Bed- it is like a low lying hammock for dogs and cats and I find that they truly enjoy them:  http://kuranda.com/dog-beds?partner=15361 

Senility, otherwise known as cognitive dysfunction has been documented in dogs.  As their brain ages, dogs can be more prone to behavior changes such as house-soiling, lack of response to verbal or visual cues, sleeping more during the day and less at night, pacing, staring into space or the walls and seeking less attention.  Your veterinarian can help you determine if these behaviors are due to age change or if they are caused by underlying diseases that can be treated.

Dental care cannot be encouraged enough.  Senior pets who have not had regular dental cleanings throughout their life are especially susceptible to disease.  Resistance to disease in seniors is not as good as it was when the pet was younger.  The healthier your pet’s mouth is, the less chance that bad bacteria will migrate from the mouth to other organs.

Advances in veterinary care help pets live longer, happier lives.  Don’t let your pet be a stranger to your veterinarian- bring them at least twice yearly for physical examinations.  Early detection and correction of illness is important.  For more information, please contact your veterinarian and visit websites such as  www.bowbottomvet.com and http://www.healthypet.com

 

10 TIPS ON COPING WITH THE LOSS OF YOUR PET

 

The death of a pet brings about some of the most painful and difficult decisions a pet owner must face. Following are some of the most commonly asked questions about pet euthanasia.

When is it time to euthanize my pet?
Your veterinarian is the best judge of your pet’s physical condition: whether an illness or injury is terminal; whether surgery or medication would significantly prolong your pet’s life, and for how long.

However, you are the best judge of the day-to-day quality of your pet’s life. You should be able to tell if he/she is suffering unreasonably, or if he/she is still finding pleasure in life despite his/her condition. If a pet still has a good appetite, responds to attention, seeks his/her owner’s company, participates in play or family life and is able to get up to relieve itself many pet owners feel that their pet is still enjoying life and living with dignity. If, on the other hand, a pet is in constant pain, undergoing difficult or stressful treatments, is unresponsive to affection or seemingly unaware of his/her surroundings a caring pet owner will probably wish to end this beloved companion’s suffering.

Evaluate your pet’s health honestly and unselfishly with your veterinarian. Nothing can make this decision an easy one, but it is often the final act of love you can make on his/her behalf.

Should I stay during euthanasia?
Many people feel that this is the final gesture of love and comfort one can show for an animal friend. Some have felt relief and comfort by staying, as they were able to see for themselves that the pet did not suffer, that he/she passed away gently and peacefully and that he/she is truly gone. For many, not witnessing the death – and perhaps not viewing the body afterwards – made it difficult to accept in their hearts that the pet was truly dead, making it more difficult to deal with their grief later.

Euthanasia can be traumatic. You must ask yourself openly and honestly if you are prepared to handle it. If you feel that your emotions will not be in control, you are more likely to upset the animal than comfort her. These emotions are natural and no cause for shame.

Your veterinarian will also be involved in this decision. Some clinics invite the owner to be present – others are less enthusiastic. If you feel strongly about staying and your veterinarian is unwillingly, you may wish to have the euthanasia done elsewhere.

Some veterinarians are willing to euthanize a pet at home. Others have come to the owner’s car to administer the injection. Again, discuss these options with your veterinarian.

What do I do now?
When a pet dies you face the question of how to handle the remains. When you are upset and grieving it may seem easiest to leave the pet at the clinic and allow the staff to deal with the next steps. Some find this the best choice. Others feel that a pet deserves a more formal ceremony.

Cremation is an inexpensive option that allows you to handle your pet’s remains as you wish: to bury them (even in the city), Scatter them, leave them in a columbarium, or keep them in a decorative urn.

Home burial is a common choice. However, city regulations usually prohibit pet burials. This is also not a good choice if you rent or move frequently.

For many people a pet cemetery provides a sense of permanence and security, bringing formality and dignity to a pet burial.

Check with your veterinarian for options in your area. When possible, it is better to make plans in advance than in the midst of your grief.

I hurt so much! Am I over-reacting?
Intense grief over the loss if a pet is completely normal and natural. Every pet owner who considers a pet a beloved friend and companion, a true family member, goes through what you are experiencing now. You are not being overly sentimental, weak, crazy, or foolish to grieve.

You may have spent years with this animal. During this time he/she was a constant part of your life, always ready to give you love, comfort and companionship. Pets provide unconditional, non-judgmental love. So don’t be surprised if you feel devastated by the loss of such a powerful relationship, no matter how long or brief it was.

What should I tell my children?
Some people fear that their children can’t handle the news of the death of a pet. You are the best judge of what your children can and cannot understand, based upon their ages and personalities – but don’t underestimate them! You may find that by being candid with your children about what happened to the pet you now have an opportunity to address some of the fears and misconceptions they have about death and dying.

Honesty is important. Avoid using the term “put to sleep”, as many children have difficulty understanding the difference between this and ordinary sleep. Don’t say, “he/she went away” or “he/she didn’t want to stay here anymore”. A child may then wait in anguish for the pet to return or wonder what he or she did to make the pet unhappy enough to leave. Make it clear that the pet will not come back and that he/she is at peace wherever he/she is.

Accept your child’s grief as you accept your own. Never assume that a child is too young or too old to grieve. Don’t try to hide your sorrow from them or they may fear that you don’t understand theirs. Discuss the loss with the entire family, giving everyone support in working through their emotional pain.

What can I do about my feelings?
The most important step you can take is to be honest with yourself about what you are feeling. Don’t deny that you are feeling pain or that you feel guilty or angry. Only by looking at these feelings and coming to terms with them can you begin to work through them.

You have a right to feel pain, guilt or anger. Someone you love has died. You are going to feel alone and bereaved. Acknowledge those feelings first, then ask yourself whether the circumstances justify them.

Locking away your grief doesn’t make it go away. Express it. Cry, scream, pound the floor, talk it out – do whatever helps you the most. Reminisce about the good times with your pet and the pleasure of his/her company. This will help you understand what the pet meant to you and clarify the significance of your loss.

Many people find it helpful to express their memories and feelings in stories, poems or letters to the departed pet. Other coping techniques include rearranging your schedule to fill in the times you once spent with the pet, removing the pet’s things from sight (though some find that keeping the pet’s things in view is helpful instead), preparing some form of memorial such as a photo collage, and talking to others about your loss.

Who can I talk to?
If your family or friends love pets they’ll understand what you’re going through. Don’t hide your feelings from them in an attempt to appear strong and calm. If your friends don’t see your need for comfort, they won’t be able to provide it! Working through your feelings with another person is one of the best ways to put them in perspective and learn how to handle them. Find someone you can talk with about your pet, someone who won’t be uncomfortable with your tears and grief. Remember, your grief is just as genuine and deserving of comfort and help as grief over loss of a human companion.

Should I get a new pet right away?
For most people, the answer is “no”. Generally, we need time to work through grief and loss to help us come to terms with our emotions before getting another companion animal. If these emotions are not resolved, you may find yourself resenting the new pet for seemingly trying to take the place of the old one. Your expectations of the new pet may be unreasonable; thus compromising both your needs and those of the new animal.

It is also not a good idea to get a look-alike pet. Comparisons become more likely when the animal looks much like the pet that is gone. Often, getting a look-alike pet is a sign that you haven’t accepted the loss of your pet and are trying to replace him/her.

A new pet should be acquired for his/her own sake; to be loved and accepted for his/her own special qualities. Select an animal that you can build another long and loving relationship with when everyone in the home is ready – because this is what living with a pet is all about.

Will my other pets grieve?
Just as you react to the loss of a family member, your other pets notice the absence of their companion. Pets recognize every change in the household. They often form strong attachments to one another, so you may find that the survivor of the bonded pair grieves for his/her companion. Cats grieve for missing dogs and dogs grieve for missing cats. Affection and grief are not species specific. You may need to give the surviving pet(s) a great deal of extra attention and love to help him/her/them through this period.  You may also find this helps you through your own sorrow more quickly than expected.

What can I expect to feel?
Different people experience grief in different ways. Besides your sorrow and loss, you may experience guilt, anger, denial, and/or depression.

Guilt may occur if you feel you were somehow responsible for your pet’s death – the “if only I’d been more careful” syndrome. It is pointless to burden yourself with the responsibility of the illness or accident that claimed your pet’s life. Weighing yourself down with guilt only makes it more difficult to work through your loss.

Denial is difficulty accepting that the pet is really gone. It’s hard to imagine that he/she won’t come greet you or that he/she won’t need his/her evening meal. Some pet owners carry this normal reaction to extremes, and worry that the pet is still alive and suffering somewhere. Others find it difficult to bring a new pet into their life because they feel it violates the memory of the deceased one.

Anger may be directed at the illness that killed the pet or any people associated with the pet’s death. Sometimes anger is justified but carried to an extreme; it only distracts you from the important task of resolving your grief.

Depression is a natural consequence of grief and, if unchecked, can leave you powerless to cope with your feelings. Extreme depression robs you of energy, even the energy to get up in the morning. Dwelling on your sorrow without working on its resolution can spiral into a painful trap in which your grief only becomes more bitter. 

Diet trial compliance
At-home tips for diet trials

A food allergy may be what’s causing your pet’s skin problems. To uncover which food or ingredient may be the culprit, you need to be committed to your pet’s diet trial. To stay on track, post this handout, along with any other dietary information provided by your veterinarian, in a highly visible spot, such as on your refrigerator or your pet’s food container.

The following points are key to the success of this diagnostic protocol:

• Feed your pet only the prescribed diet. No other foods or treats are allowed.
• Make sure all family members and friends know that your pet is receiving a special diet, and not to give outside food.
• If you need to use treats for rewards or training purposes, use some of the prescribed diet.
• If you have other pets of the same species in your house, feed them the same diet and feed them separately.
• Keep your pet out of the room during meals to avoid him or her picking up dropped food.
• If pills are prescribed for your pet, don’t hide them in anything other than the prescribed diet. If giving medication is a problem, please discuss with your veterinarian.
• Flavored products, such as those found in medications, toothpaste, and certain plastic toys, must be avoided during the diet trial.
• If your pet is in the habit of eating dropped food or garbage when exercised outside, keep it on a leash.

The Dangers of Ear Cropping and Tail Docking in Dogs

Dr Julie Schell  BSc(Hons), DVM, CVA, CVCHM, CVC

 It  is very important to fully understand the risks and severe side effects involved with ear cropping and tail docking in dogs.

Ear cropping and tail docking are very painful procedures and there is a high chance of post surgical infection, severe scaring that can lead to further pain not to mention poor cosmetic appearances.  The aftercare is extensive-way too much to put a puppy through- especially a puppy who you are trying to introduce to your home, train, raise and monitor.  The Canadian Veterinary Medical Association’s Animal Welfare Position Statements list that cropping and tail docking are unnecessary, simply cosmetic and are not recommended.

Dogs on average do much better in life if their ears are kept natural and intact.  The ear is a highly vascular and nerve-rich structure.  There are also many acupressure and acupuncture points in the ear that I use to treat patients with on a daily basis.  If the ear is amputated, the dog will not have the chance of benefiting from these treatments.  Also, dogs just love getting their ears rubbed and petted– don’t take that away from your dog.

Ear flaps are also useful in other medical areas.  I often use ear flaps to train owners to collect blood samples for blood glucose curves in diabetic dogs.

Tails are excellent in supporting the proper alignment of the dog’s spinal and also the tail helps balance the dog while they run.  Dogs rely on their tail to provide optimal gate.  I see this every day especially because I treat a lot of dogs with chiropractic and acupuncture.

Dogs who have had a leg amputated or who have painful arthritis in one leg often rely on their tail to support and balance their new locomotion needs.  The tail often acts a rudder while they are swimming or walking, aiding in their locomotion abilities.

When ears are cropped and the tail docked, dogs have difficulty in communicating with each other.  Dogs constantly use communication cues such as tail position and ear positions to help them interact with each other.  If these important appendages are missing, dogs often misinterpret each other which can lead to fighting and biting.

Humans also subconsciously and consciously use ear position and tail attitude to understand dogs– many people instantly become wary of dogs with cropped ears and missing tails, and they are more likely to show fear.  The dog is great at picking up on fear cues, which will hinder the relationship from one dog to another dog and from the dog to the human.  Biting and fighting can ensue when a dog or a human do not understand each other.  As you’re probably aware, dog bites and aggression in Calgary are treated very seriously by the City of Calgary Animal Services, and many dogs are listed as dangerous or even ordered to be euthanized by the City of Calgary every year because they have bitten people or other dogs.  That is not something I wish on anyone.  It is best to give your dog the best chance of growing into a well adapted, socialized pet, and keeping the ears intact is another way to help do that.

I also see a lot of ear infections in adult dogs who have had their ears cropped as a puppy.  This is because ears help prevent debris and dirt from entering the ear canal. If the dog’s ears have been cropped, the defense mechanisms are hindered.

I practice a lot of preventative medicine- ie- doing positive things and not doing negative things, to help prevent disease and behaviour issues.  Leaving a dog’s ears intact helps prevent a lot of medical and behaviour issues.

Thus, I definitely do not recommend ear cropping or tail docking, and I do not perform the procedure unless it is truly for health related reasons (such as tail cancer or ear cancer).  I have the best interests of your dog and you in mind.  Pet owners should put all the money and energy that it takes to do the cropping and docking, and use it for all the aftercare into other areas of healthcare for your dog such as nutrition, training, pet health insurance, massage therapy, toys, daycare, etc.

Did you know that your dog can still be shown with intact ears and tails?  The judges are much more open and in some rings cropping and docking are prohibited.  Plus, dogs look so beautiful and feel great in their natural form, with long tails and full, intact ears.

Please contact us if you have any questions.  www.bowbottomvet.com

Thank you,

Dr. Julie Schell  BSc(Hons), DVM, CVA, CVCHM, CVC
Bow Bottom Veterinary Hospital
www.bowbottomvet.com

 Your pets are our passion!